End of paradise

The waterfalls and rapids of Thmor Roong, Koh Kong province, Cambodia were revisited for a third time this month. Located at nearly the half way point between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh the area was a great place for a complete getaway. Three years ago there was just 1 lady with an eski and possibly 2 or 3 shelter huts depending on what exactly you would describe as those.

Since though things have taken off: roughly ten shops now supply about 100 huts. These huts are lined two rows thick and seem solely intent in damaging the very environment that is the main attraction. Despite it not being Khmer New Year, rubbish was already easily to be found.

Worst of all a development 100m upstream seems to be excluding use for those wishing to get away from it all. A huge two meter high wall has been erected and signs through the riverbed seem to be there to deter visitors from straying upstream.
Beyond the wall, a guard hut and building have been built and the once verdant jungle undergrowth was still smoldering after some slash and burn. This stood in stark contrast to the opposing river side where the forest was still prime and once away from the main area birds were singing. Though I can’t say for sure that this side will not see the same fate.

Three years ago a visit was free to get away from the crowds, now a dollar the person to join the crowd! Thanks again folks for ruining what was once a beautiful place to visit. Long may you party (one set of visitors had a speaker box along, 1.5 m tall).

Another recent blog entry on Thmar Roung. There's apparently now a signboard with a JICA logo on it ....

Extending the definition?

Seeing how this web site is increasingly becoming a personal listing of great places to swim and have fun in Southeast Asia with at least some water losing some height. All the while enjoying the naturalness of both the water and the surroundings, I could now embark on putting swimming holes on the list. These are not waterfalls persé, though some occur where there are rapids. But where will it end?

A contentious point that I could do is to include the Siloso Beach Resort, Singapore where I stayed a couple of nights during the opening of the resort in August 2007. The resort has an 18 meter man-made waterfall in their pool, but should it be included? I think not, it's man made and I suppose (hopefully) that the water has been chlorinated and the likes, i.e. there's nothing natural to it anymore.

Back to swimming holes then. Should I? A case in point is the recent inclusion of the posting on Nam Lik, Lao, which I rate as my most enjoyed swim hole experience in Southeast Asia. The reasons though are personal. As the Southeast Asian waterfalls experience for me is not a technical experience (see worldwaterfalldatabase: What is considered a waterfall?), it's about enjoyment which, yes, can be personal. However some waterfalls have the wow factor (great to see, but little to enjoy), others awesome (jumping from rocks, skinny dipping and the likes). But possibly we getting on a sliding scale.

Is a simple slow flowing but deep river not a swim hole? Good question, it has it's merits. Maybe I should just rename the blog, Enjoying the Natural Waters of Southeast Asia? But then what is natural water? Non-contaminated, free from pollution? And would beaches not be included? Probably not, that might be a great theme for a new blog though ..

Tatai, Koh Kong, Cambodia. This is a great waterhole just north of the rapids.
Can be reached from the Rainbow Lodge. The owner recommends:

'Skinny dipping by moonlight anyone?'

Let's rate, this way readers can see what I look for in waterfalls and the like.
Natural awesomeness: 2. Natural surroundings: 5. Skinny dipping: 4. Overall experience: 4.

Bohorok River, Bukit Lawang, Sumatra Utara, Indonesia.

Bukit Lawang is a small village, the first village after the Bohorok river has left the Gunung Leuser National Park. Visits to here are popular with locals in the weekend to enjoy the river and nature, whereas tourists stay here as it is the location of an Orang Utan rehabilitation center.
Many guesthouses are located along the river and sleeping is a true delite.
Tubing is also possible, but just jumping around and swimming is as much fun.
Natural awesomeness: 4. Natural surroundings: 4. Skinny dipping: 0. Overall experience: 3.

Yak Lom, Ratanakiri, Cambodia. See blog post earlier.
Natural awesomeness: 4. Natural surroundings: 4. Skinny dipping: 2 (seclusion is on offer, outside of weekends, early in the day or during sun-down). Overall experience: 4.

Swimming in the Tonle San, between Taveng and Voensai, Ratanakiri, Cambodia.
Natural awesomeness: 2. Natural surroundings: 4. Skinny dipping: 0 Overall experience: 2.

Danau Toba, Sumatra Utara, Indonesia. From Tuk Tuk village.

Natural awesomeness: 4. Natural surroundings: 3. Skinny dipping: 1 (after dark).

Overall experience: 3.

Getting There

Thmor Roong (or alternatively Thmor Rung) is a series of rapids and shorter falls over a 500 meter stretch of river in O'Bak Rotes commune, Koh Kong province, Cambodia. Nothing actually distinguishes them, other than their unknownness.

Efforts have been made to set up a few stalls where the entrance track ends, though these are only manned during Cambodia's major festive days. Arrive outside of these days the place is deserted. Near the entrance is the highest falls though it's much more of a slide than a fall. Head upstream and there are many more water holes and rapids. Not all deep but enough to paddle about in.

Access was poor (2008) and since, the access has become worse. The access road starts from National Highway 4 (Phnom Penh - Sihanoukville) just beyond the second (new) toll booth, about half way. The road veers off to the west. This stretch has a number of potholes and a long rickety wooden bridge. At the T-crossing (a km from the turn-off) one goes left and continues beyond the village. There are a number of muddy sections and close to the end one should pass through a stream. This last September (2009), it was only passable with 4 wheel drive vehicles. In all it is only 3-4 km from the highway, sufficient deterrent to avert the easy-going crowds, but enough to assist those more intent tourists.

Some of the rapids upstream

The main falls area during rainy season

Just veer of the path and have your own dip

And in the dry season ....

An update from 2010.

Which one?

Looking towards sea (below the rocks).

Kbal Chhay or Koh Por? Both? Apparently it is still not clear what name to give this waterfall located in Koh Kong province, Cambodia. Possibly Kbal Chhay is not used as often, now that Koh Kong is asserting itself on the tourist map. Kbal Chhay is also the name of neighbouring Kampong Som province's only waterfall and as such a major tourist destination there. Operators naming this Koh Por makes sense as it distinguishes it from the other Kbal Chhay.

As with the previously blogged Tatai, this waterfall lies exactly between fresh and salt water. We visited January 2008 with a brilliant blue sky enticing us for a dip. Above the falls (just about 5 m) there were a number of great swimming pools, while below one can swim in the seawater. Above cool, below lukewarm.

Lying on the Stung Koh Poi river, the river originating from the Cardomom mountains, one of Asia's last natural frontiers. Beyond the falls is nothing, just nature.

Getting here is tricky though this is easing with the increased number of tourists. Essentially in Koh Kong town itself, one rents a boat for a half day ($10) and with that the boat chooses course on the broad expanse of water keeping to the right. Slowly the mountains and jungle come closer and after a turn to the west one goes straight to the falls, which are roughly 15km or an hour by boat from the town. No roads.

Accomadation is to be had in Koh Kong town as well as food. Nothing exists near the falls, so bringing something with you is advisable. It's a great place to while away.

Start from the top

Considering the first waterfall I visited in Southeast Asia was somewhere back in 1988 and I intend to post all the consequent visits, the question is where to start? From back then? The best? The most resourced?

I thought I would begin with the most recent. Cambodia. Koh Kong province. Tatai waterfall.

Located on the river of the same name, it's the best accessed waterfall in this until recently remote province which lies on the coast closest to Thailand.

With a wide fall over 10-15m, two weeks ago there was plenty of water. There are some great pools inbetween and below. It's pretty unique in that the bottom is brack water under eb and flow conditions, while before the fall there is fresh water.


We accessed it coming on foot from the excellent Rainbow Lodge, a 2 hour hike through tough undergrowth. It is also reachable by boat from the first bridge leaving Koh Kong for the rest of cambodia or by car from the same road.

There are not many facilities, quite often in Cambodia this is a relief.

Another short report on the falls and Rainbow lodge can be found here.