Your money's worth

Just thought I would warn you. Thailand's National Park Department has decided to raise entrance fees on 29 parks as of 1 October 2012. In the TTR Weekly there is a full overview of which parks and why the tariffs are up.

'The department claims the top national parks are suffering from too many tourists and the new fees will be a deterrent to help fight deterioration of a sensitive environment. Also the department says it will use the additional revenue to improve facilities to better serve tourists'.

Already complaints are mounting. And I have to agree. Despite the entrance fees, there's little to show. Visitor facilities are at best mediocre, trails extend at best 20 minutes by foot, anything beyond that is a jungle expedition and the staff tend to hang around a lot, hardly see them doing anything productive.

But yes some national parks are packed (witness Erawan waterfalls) but maybe putting a day limit on the amount of visitors might do wonders. Or help to develop alternatives.

To be continued? 

Dry and salt?

For those of you seeking even more info, here are two snippets of news.

The first concerns a travelfish entry on Phu Quoc, Vietnam Tranh stream, possibly the only (seasonal) waterfall on this otherwise dry island.

The other concerns a saltwater waterfall in Trang province, Thailand. Posted on the TTR Weekly it mentions that money will be thrown into creating visitor facilities for this rare waterfall.

'The downside is that the waterfall is only visible during the 14th to 15th full moon and first and second days of the waning moon from 0600 to 0800 and from 1700 to 1800'.

Hmmm, ....

Up the creek

Easily accessible from the most touristed stretch of the Khao Lak coast (Phang Nga, Thailand), it could be expected that Chong Fa would be nearly overrun or near ruined. However the opposite is true.

'Please do not entry to the waterfall'

The entrance gate (Chong Fa is part of the Lam Ru National Park) is half open or half close with a poster revealing that the park is somehow off-limits (photo above). A plus is that the park is (still?) open. Furthermore, no entry fees are required. And once again the access road is too difficult to take. There is a lone ranger, but he has his pitched his hammock up high and is wondering what his dreams will bring him.

From the entrance to the waterfall is a 1km long access road. From the road head it’s another 200m walk along a track to the first level, so no real strenuous hike, but a deliteful one nonetheless.

Getting there is a big part of the experience.

Chong Fa is a fabulous waterfall with lots of water crushing down into a deep and sunny pool. Downstream along the access road, are more swim holes, all deep and free flowing with great opportunities for a great dip.

It really is amazing, this piece of paradise so close to the paradise lost of Khao Lak.


There’s one website which has some more info on Khao Lak’s waterfalls (it mentions Chong Fa as having a steep (!) track to the first of five levels), but in general Khao Lak’s waterfalls are neglected and ignored, despite these being a great way to diversify the coast’s attractions, generate income and able to increase awareness of the globe’s natural surroundings, their fragility and the unique experience they offer. It contrasts with other places nearer Bangkok where waterfalls have become attraction parks, places of recreation.

But for me the tranquillity and (temporary?) absence of the great world is an opportunity to indulge in swimming, plunging and receiving a natural back massage.

Chong Fa, back massage please!

Deserted & ditched

The waterfall named Kha On (or Thap Mon) is another great find. A difficult one to find, it is just 13 kms from the main road, not far from Thap Sakae, Prachuap Khiri Khan.

The road gradually deteriorates and after passing what might be a ranger post (Kha On is part of Huai Yang National Park), a decision is made to ditch the car before going down the hill to find out that a return would be impossible.

Five hundred meters beyond the spot where we left the car behind, is indeed what might be referred to as a car park, with a toilet building nearby. Deserted on a week day, the height of the grass also points to the lack of an enthusiastic pack of waterfall hunters, yea!

An excellent path explains the nine levels and with swift jumps the no. 9 is coming ever closer. After half an hour, we have passed all levels and arrive at the uppermost level, described as a 15m drop which we will contend is the truth.

Level no. 9

The other levels though are just small breaks, some hardly registering a drop.

Kha On is another beautiful undiscovered place. And well-maintained.

If one understands Russian see this blog. It doesn't add much, but many photo's.

Neatly served

Well signposted, Sai Rung (which translates as rainbow) waterfall might be rated as the better known of Khao Lak’s triple waterfalls, just north of the beach center.

Otherwise known by the local name of Pak Weep (Pakweep), the turnoff is just north of the bridge, north of Le Meridien. The wide road leads one to beyond a turnoff to the waterfall, a total of 3 km from the main highway 4. Again the road heads through the linear plantings of palmoil and rubber. The road ends at a car park. Sort of a car park.

Continuing on foot, the obvious trail goes over a bridge to a cluster of huts on the opposite bank. The environs of these are being swept by an elderly gentleman, it still being early morning, looking forward to the new day, the new guests. The trail continues beyond, to a fall with a delicious pool underneath.


A novelty of sorts, a table is waiting on us, the table well set, drinks poured and towels within reach. Totally incomprehensible, these are not destined for us! Set back a little from the table are two westerners, busily cooking their own meal under direction/assistance of only 5 local cooks. Probably from the nearby Sarojin resort.

The waterfall itself is a 30m crash. On the opposite bank, steps leads one up into the slippery and slimy rainforest. It just goes up and up as the falls are in reality a set of crashing falls seemingly unendless, falling down from somewhere higher, even higher.

As Khao Lak (Phang Nga) is an upcoming resort to cater to the increasing numbers of tourists seeking exactly an escape, it's no wonder that waterfalls feature highly on the to do list of any visitor.
Khaolakhotels.com mentions Sai Rung being the

'most immediately accesible'

which seems weird as it's located quite far away from Khao Lak town.

Cathy and gary had some problems finding the place:

'We originally set off well prepared with a map looking for a different waterfall. The map was absolutely useless and after a few hours of driving through beautiful countryside and stopping and asking numerous times where to go, we decided to head back to the hotel for a swim'.

There are also quite a few vids on youtube. As well as a photo on Panoramio.

Another beautiful waterfall, possibly attracting too many visitors ...