Cement

Saraburi is to most who pass through this province, synonymous with traffic, cement factories and huge Bhuddha's; certainly not with nature.

But surprise, surprise, Saraburi province, despite it's size, contains no less than 2 national parks, Namtok Chet Sao Noi and Phra Phutthachai (sometimes known as Khao Sam Lan). Furthermore there are quite a few waterfalls, some more well known than others. Muak Lek waterfall (tiny), Heo Noi, Sap Heo, Suan Maduea, Sap Pa Wan, Krok Fa Phanang and Khao Khaep.

Dried up
As Khao Sam Lan National Park is listed as having a signature waterfall (Sam Lan) as well as some others (Pho Hin Dat, Ton Rak Sai, Krok I-woe, Nang Chon, Phaeng Ma and Roi Kueak Ma) and it's just outside town towards Bangkok (take road 3042, followed by 3046), it was the destination of the late April day.

Fancy coming up to the entrance and being told that the waterfall was dry. They basically implied that the 200 THB (~$US 6) special entrance fee for foreigners was not worth the sights located further up the road.
Many locals continued but it was said that they were going for the food stalls and to relax, as they don't seem to have to pay an entrance fee.

Oh well better this way than the other way around. Expect much more water later on in the year.

[Update: The Bangkok Post (1 September 2011) places an article on the Sam Lan NP suggesting it is better to negotiate the park by cycle:

'Being the Kingdom’s smallest national park, Namtok Sam Lan NP of Sara Buri province covers an area of only 44.5 square kilometres. It is named after a waterfall that is known to be dry and lifeless most of the year, except on days that it rains real, real hard'.

Hmm ...

Next stop
I took a long and hard look at the map and decided that Chet Khot (Chetkhot, Jedkot?) waterfall would be do-able, not too far away. I double checked at the national park entrance and they said, yes, expect more water there. Fine.

So eventually back on route 2, in the plethora of traffic. Past cement factories heading to the giant Bhuddha. Ideally you want to turn off in Thap Kwang village, just before the highway starts to rise into the hills. But hey, this is an 8 lane highway, don't do the U-turn, just travel up beyond the next cement factory and there there is a fine overhead U-turn, safety wise better and loads more comfortable than sweating it out while waiting for a break in traffic.

Back in Thap Kwang head left and ask around. Eventually you'll end up on the right road which goes up into the hills for another 10 km or so. Winding itself around and over the hills it passes some smaller villages with small plantations. Signage is clear from here.

Surprisingly despite it's proximity to Bangkok there's little touristic development. Eventually the road ends at a car park, a couple of other cars and about 20 or so motorcycles, no entrance fee is required.

Upstream
There are a couple of buildings around the car park, overlooking a series a small rapids.

On the other side of the stream, a track disappears into the forest. It's a 1,5 km track which traverses the stream about halfway. At the end is brilliant pool with about a 10m high waterfall.

Young lads (owners of the motorcycles) are jumping off the cliff and generally seeking some kind of attention. A beautiful spot, but even on a Tuesday too spoilt by my fellow humans.


I walk up the side of the cliff, our youngsters expecting me to jump as well, but no (thank you), I just continue up the stream. There's no path but wading through the stream and scrambling over the rocks, brings more sought-after solitude, another beautiful spot.

Around
I hope it stays like this, my map also has a dotted red line crossing closeby the falls, the motorway no. 6 project. Yikes!

There is surprising amounts of info available on Chet Khot especially as somewhere nearby there's a nature study center (or here) located which arranges treks to more waterfalls in the area; Chet Khot Nue, Chet Khot Klang, Chet Khot Tai, Chet Khot Yai, Khao Raet (or Khao Khaep?), Krop Fa Phanang and Krok I Dok.
Andy has stayed overnite. Wow.

There's an article from the Bangkok Post (September 2006) about a visit here, including his or her experiences while trekking to Krok E-Dok waterfall, 8-10 kms from the center, but surprisingly under two hours of walk!

Kitaro has a photo overview of Klong Pakkham in Chet Khot forest.

Well, now I know Bangkokians have no reason not to escape town ...

By Bhuddha

Intro
Signs say it's Wang Kan Lueng, others prefer Wang Kan Lueang whereas Wang Kan Luang seems to result in the most finds.

Probably Lopburi (Thailand) province's only waterfall, it will come to a surprise to many that there is even a waterfall in this mainly flat province. Better known for it's sunflower fields, the surrounding rolling hills are packed with to be planted cassava and/or to be harvested sugarcane; there's little to suggest in the geology nor in the landscape that hidden between the fields are a beautiful series of cascades.

Accessed from road 2089, Muak Lek - Chai Badan, entry is about 7 km north of the intersection with 2256 and the town of Tha Luang. The entry road heads west towards the floodplains formed by the Pa Sak Jolasid Dam. Only a km in length and extending on both sides of the stream, one soon arrives at the entrance proper: a car park with an impressive amount of food and knick-knack stalls.

Bhuddha
Effort has been made to keep the surroundings attractive, despite the lack of official protection by forest or national park administration; more often than not the way waterfalls are protected in Thailand.
Part of these efforts are directed by the erecting of a number of Buddha statues, Pae and Guy have a small blog entry solely on these statues.

All lined up

Exploitation
Officially described as an arboretum, there's not much to suggest that this is really the case. Just above the falls, a bridge extends to the other side which also has a large car park with vending stalls. Walk down stream past the main part of the falls and there is yet again a large bridge so one can make a circular route around the falls.

Gazing down

The main part of the falls are a rocky drop of about 5m. It's obvious that the underlying rock contains large amounts of calcium and the water changes colour to white/grey.

Above the falls are a number of vendors renting out picnic mats and inner tubes and judging by the height of the stacks, on certain days there must be heaps of visitors, Bangkok only 2,5 hours away. Above the falls are also some ponds to splash around in.

Betting on tubing

Below the falls, waters continue to drop creating small pools as the stream jumps in half meter / meter intervals. This section of the falls is impeccably clean and well-managed.

Further away
Downstream of the fall proper, extends a nature walk, hugging the north side of the stream. In places the stream becomes stagnant, but beyond the nearest stagnant section the stream continues it's jumping pattern. On a Monday morning there are some families near the main section of the falls, but at this time further downstream it's totally deserted. More worrying though is that refuse management does not extend this far and there is quite a bit of wind blown rubbish to be observed. The natural habitat evaporates and up to the edge of the stream are teak plantations. However each stream fall is followed by a waterhole, just the place for a secluded dip.

Web
Internet gives some other experiences, though most are positive. Paul Garrigan, a Lopburi located blogger, is quite surprised his province heralds a waterfall and despite his possible misgivings is quite impressed:

'When I caught my first glimpse of Wang Kan Lueang I was impressed straight away. I am no stranger to waterfalls in Thailand; for five years I lived in a village that is situated around a stunning ten level waterfall. Once we descended down some steps to Wang Kan Lueang it turned out to be a lot more crowded than I was expecting; I automatically regretted not bringing my swimming trunks because the water looked great and there were quite a few people already having fun'.

Melissa Swenson has a few pics from an equally good time. On flickr there are parts of sets by Joel Oh and lucaskt.

Falling Fairies

Entrance to Suoi Tien

Fairies
Suoi Tien is a commonly used name for a water-like attraction in Vietnam. Suoi meaning stream, Tien meaning fairy. So in English not as straight forward as commonly thought. Fairies are an often recurring theme in Vietnamese legends and with Suoi Tien, Khanh Hoa province the legend goes as follow:

'Legend has it that a giant from Binh Dinh Province visited Suoi Tien thousands of years ago. Enchanted by its charm, the giant accidentally slid into the stream. One of his feet landed on a boulder on the bank of the river, flattening it to create a smooth surface in the middle of the stream. The flat stone served as a place for fairies from heaven to play after coming down to earth for a swim. The flat stone is now an ideal resting point for visitors who want to conquer the upstream flow of the river'.

Note that the website from which I gained this insight has a photo of another stream (possibly for fairies) presumably more south (Mui Ne?).

The stream at entrance, with man-made pool.
Note the extensive scarring beyond, a sign of times to come

Getting There
Anyway, this Suoi Tien is located not so far from Nha Trang, the provincial capital. Passed the 17th century citadel of Dien Khahn one takes a left and continues towards the hills, sign boarding is unpredictable. There is also a number of internet sites that imply taking a turn from highway 1, south of Nha Trang in the village of Suoi Dao.
And finally a new by-pass is being built which will alter the directions altogether. The final 1 km up to the foot of the mountain is a poor road , though small scale repairs were underway. A total of 20-25 km from Nha Trang (45 min.).

Plans are being drawn up, according to this reference:

'under a 15 year plan to build hotels, bungalows, regenerate forest, etc'.

So by then it should be less difficult to find!
Considering the amount of scarring this process (construction) is already resulting in (see photo above), the regeneration part will probably entail a long term restoration of what they had initially undertaken. Sims [1] adds:

'Past the parking area a bar, restaurant, and tourist office are under construction. This once hidden gem is under wraps no more!
…
The downside to tourism is evident in all the litter seen strewn about, despite the odd rubbish bin'.

Other references are less expansive. LP [2] has a short paragraph on Suoi Tien:

'This enchanting spring seems to pop up out of nowhere.
…
It has been earmarked as the next big ecotourism site, which paradoxically probably means massive over-development, but it is still peaceful if you hike upstream'.

Anyway despite the nearness to Nha Trang and the obvious attractiveness for recreation, a week day mid-morning, March 2011, sees little or no crowds at all, quite sleepy.

Experience
An entrance fee is required (10,000 VND; ~ US$ 0,50) and then ione can wander up the stream. Despite aforementioned plans, there's still hardly anything to be had, at the entrance; even buying a drink is only just do-able.

The first set of falls which have been enhanced see a large crowd of drunk local teenagers, but continuing onwards through the stream bed one can seek solitude easily.

Enhanced

There's a passage below an overhanging rock and at a certain place an inlet for drinking water. Continuing through the bed stream brings one in still quieter places, though refuse still bears witness to a superior (?) civilisation.

Finally I find a nice sun drenched sandy pool and take an au-naturel plunge and reconnect with my inner-self. Birds everywhere, a nice place indeed.

More
Though not a waterfall in the strictest sense, it does contain many drops of a meter or more. There are a lot of pools to cool off in and if motivated one can continue onward up the mountain. Sims [2] describes continuing as follows:

'Locals say that if you follow the stream to its source, about a two day hike, you’ll reach a magical chess board used long ago by fairies’.

Closeby is another stream, Suoi Nguon which according to Sims [1] misses the extensive development of the other nearby sites (see Ba Ho and Yang Bay) and signifies

‘it’s peaceful atmosphere with little to no other people around’.

Suoi Nguon can be reached by taking the road up Hon Ba mountain. Some pictures of Suoi Nguon are to be seen from this web album.

Notes:
[1] Sims, A. (2010) Nha Trang Guide Book 2011-2012 Edition EBT Media, Nha Trang, Vietnam.
[2] Ray, N., Y.-M. Balasingamchow, I. Stewart (2010) Vietnam. 10th Edition. Lonely Planet, Footscray, Australia

Delving Gems

With close to 100 entries on Southeast Asian waterfalls it's increasingly more difficult to be awed by yet another waterfall.
In general the bigger / higher waterfalls hold little value to me. Directly opposite are those that are relatively untouched, gentle and hold high natural and recreational value, often combined with some difficulties in reaching.

The Lao province of Xieng Khouang, one of this landlocked nations' major tourist destinations, is still a 10 hour plus drive from the capital of Lao, Vientiane. Mostly winding over mountain ridges with the odd descent and ascent of small vales, the bus brings one to the provincial capital of Phonsavan, not so far from a number of sites where we can admire ancient rites which resulted in constructing man-size jars.

Besides these Jars there is much army surplus to be awed by: the Vietnam war leaving behind landscape scars, ruined towns, destroyed lives and the potential to victimize still unborn locals for years to come.
The spectacular natural surroundings command little interest for tourism operators. The waterfalls (named Tad Ka (Tad Kha)) near Tajok village are an exception. But if these would stand for the province's natural beauty, more, much more should be available.

Located a little more than thirty kms to the northeast of Phonsavan, Tajok is easily reachable and typical of the many roadside villages which hug this road. Taking a right in the village, followed by another right 200m down the road one comes to a poor track which heads down the mountain side. Probably poorly accessible during the rainy season (witness Twoelders on travelpod), during the dry season one can continue downwards to a turn off with a large building.

Our guide states that this building accommodates holiday crowds which at the time (December 2010) seems a long shot. We're told to follow a trail uphill along a ridge which seems to contradict the fact that a waterfall is audible from the valley depths. The trail eventually drops steeply (200m?) to the river below. No waterfall, but a beautiful stream which is finding it's way through the picturesque forest. For the next 15 minutes we cross the rivulet often as we head upstream.

Eventually we come to a triple set of larger falls. Beyond the first fall is a nice deep swimming hole. From here we can walk steeply up the slope to the ridge track which ends at the building but from the other side.

A very beautiful waterfall, undisturbed and mostly unvisited. A gem. Unfortunately our memory card is playing up, so no photo's can be made. The following photo is from superstock.com:

'Waterfall in the forest near Phonsavan.
The waterfall is popular visiting the Phonsavan region in Laos'.

Wikitravel's description is as follows:

'The waterfall is located near Tajok village, 32 km north of Phonsavanh. The water flows over several tiers. A spectacular jungle trail winds its way up the waterfall crossing it several times. Tad Kha is a popular picnic spot for locals, especially during the Lao New Year holidays. To get there turn right at the end of Tajok village; follow the road until you see a building to the right. Walk along the ridge and take the right trail down. Local tour companies offer day tours including a picnic lunch and a hike up the waterfall'.

A final departing pic from James Zwier:

'Outing to Kham district. One of the many waterfalls in a long series at Tad Kha'.

Chambok revisited

Chambok has been visited in the past, see this posting. Not much has changed since, which if paying $3 you would think that some improvement had occurred in 4 years! But not.

Yesterday's visit with friends was a delight. Heavy overnight rain had replenished the surroundings and the water was crashing down. Some new signboards are up encouraging everyone to help in keeping the spot clean, though trash hadn't been collected in quite some time.

In Chambok itself the Romantic Waterfall Cafe (and mini guesthouse) has opened business run by the charming Puoh. Expect not too much, drinks are beer, wine, cokes and coffee. He did put in lot's of effort in his hastily arranged fried rice.

Wondering in the Kingdom

Flowers in the hair, waterfall in the background, another pic for the album.

Cambodia likes to see itself as a nation of natural beauty as exemplified by it’s waterfalls. And there is ample evidence of beautiful waterfalls in outstanding areas. However what they often neglect to inform visitors of, is the fact that the management of these waterfall areas and other areas of outstanding natural beauty contradicts the very reason why visitors may come. Or am I missing something?

K’bal Chhay (Kbal Chhay), Kompong Som province (yes you may refer to it as Sihanoukville) ranks high on Cambodia’s must see waterfalls. With the possible Bou Sra waterfalls in Mondulkiri having the edge, these falls are seen as something not to miss. Even though they aren’t the highest nor have any other qualities which would seek to attract visitors. But being close to the coastal resort of Sihanoukville seems to be the premier reason to visit here. And the reason why I have avoided visiting them.

Until this morning. Located 8 km up a dirt road from a turn off on the main road out of Sihanoukville, access is good. Entrance fees are $1 per vehicle (up 100% with 3 years ago). Along the way one passes the municipal water reservoir as well as some clear cut forest just above the reservoir. Only in Cambodia is one allowed to denude the hills surrounding it’s number 1 drinking water source. Another wonder.

There is a wikipedia page on Kbal Chhay. It mentions that the fact of the upper part of the stream being the fresh water source of Sihanoukville. That the road was constructed by a company which somehow is not responsible for the fee collection anymore, the government has moved back. None of this though I believe is transparent.

Car park galore.

At the end of the road is a gigantic car park, which I imagine can spare enough space for upwards of 1,000 cars. Luckily today there are only a dozen. Along the edges are a number of stalls, selling drinks, foods and tourist nick nacks.
Access to mid way the falls is from a small corner of the car park, but most visitors opt to cross the river and seek out a nice shaded hut on the opposite bank above the falls. There are quite a few of these stalls, fanning out above the falls. Oddly though there seems no access to below the 15-25m high falls, where one can easily see a nice pool to swim in.

Overall it all seems pretty dangerous, I for one would not be surprised at children being swept off the waterfalls or just falling. On the other side is another smaller stream which joins the falls but with it’s own set of beautiful falls.

Not the main falls.

Again it certainly is a beautiful place, but the obscenity of all the stalls above the falls takes a major part of the enjoyment away. At least for ourselves. Naturally on holidays business will be roaring so no doubt I am one of the few who resent this development. Beyond the stalls huge piles over rubbish exist and closer to the falls much rubbish has been allowed to accumulate, but that seems to concern no one. It’s a pity how a beautiful area can be destroyed in humanities never ending search to make a quick buck.

The thing to do I believe, is to see if one can extend the visit by finding a path below to the lower stream and seek out a waterhole there.

We opted to follow the brook which enters the falls site. After some 10 minutes of scrambling through the forest we come to a very small waterfall, jungle enclosed and up to half a meter deep. No crowds. No noise. No rubbish. No need for clothes. Just pure nature.

Nearby is Iball, another delitefully peaceful area where one can zorb from a slope (apparently if you’re drunk naked zorbing is allowed …), swim or simply relax. A good idea to combine the two?

Halfway down the falls. The water drops here another 15m.

Elsewhere Andy B has as always a good blog entry. He attributes Kbal Chhay's popularity to it featuring in a 2000 local movie. More photo's too and from the rainy season, a fact which also the province guide mentions as well as more of the development history.