Jarring

Tad Lang: the lowest and biggest drop

The Lao province of Xieng Khouang (Xieng Khuang) is not synonymously known for it's natural attractiveness. But rather for it's historical significance: most recently as the Vietnam War's location of dirty deeds when US aircraft saturated the area with bombs in a futile attempt to stem the communist Vietnamese from gaining the overhand in Vietnam. Simultaneously aiding their ally, the Hmong people, in their own attempt to avoid Lao from subsiding into communism.

More historically significant are the occurrence of man-size jar-like artifacts, hewn from stone and 2000 year beyond their birth; baffling researchers and tourists alike. Neatly concentrated at a number of sites within Xieng Khouang province, these jars point to sophistical funeral rites.

Lots of jars

It's near one of the more picturesque sites where these jars can be found that one can visit Tad Lang (Tat Lang): a tumble of water, falling over the edge of the plain into the moist monsoonal forest.

Site 3 of the Plain of Jars is found in village of Xiengdi, due south of Phonsavan, the provincial capital. The ride here is a rough ride over unsurfaced roads slowly becoming less wide. Three km's before the jar site, one can head down a clearly indicated track towards the waterfall, which is about 1 km away from the turn off. Just before the waterfalls themselves is a small guardpost where a local villager will hand out entrance tickets in return for 10,000 kip (Dec. 2010 ~ US$ 1,20).

One continues to the top of the falls. The wide stretch of barren rocks stands as witness of the fury to be encountered in the rainy season, however now, a few months after the last rains, there is only a two meter water stream finding it's way down in a series of smaller falls to the base about 60m below the top. The biggest fall is at the bottom about 15m. The top of the waterfall contains a number of pleasant pools, which are probably an attraction to locals, foreign tourists straying here seem very infrequent. On a week day the place is for one own though villagers still stride through the upper area on their way to their fields and/or forest. Lower down, the pools are not nearly as good but much more secluded for those preferring this.

Rocks made naked by high monsoonal waters

On your way south out of Phonsavan stop by the tourist information, there's more (and extensive) information to be had concerning the province as well as a load of junk, otherwise known as unexploded ordinance (UXO). Essential to exploring the province in more depth is the "A Guide to Xieng Khouang" by Creutz and Van Den Bergh, though all of the text is also on Wikitravel.
Other web based info from Virtualtourist, while on travelpod there is this conclusion by Zombywoof:

'... the waterfall was loud and impressive'.

Definitely not a waterfall fanatic.

There are also a couple of photo's by phnomsin on opera, which wraps up another waterfall entry.

Chambok revisited

Chambok has been visited in the past, see this posting. Not much has changed since, which if paying $3 you would think that some improvement had occurred in 4 years! But not.

Yesterday's visit with friends was a delight. Heavy overnight rain had replenished the surroundings and the water was crashing down. Some new signboards are up encouraging everyone to help in keeping the spot clean, though trash hadn't been collected in quite some time.

In Chambok itself the Romantic Waterfall Cafe (and mini guesthouse) has opened business run by the charming Puoh. Expect not too much, drinks are beer, wine, cokes and coffee. He did put in lot's of effort in his hastily arranged fried rice.

No sunny rainbow

Umphang district is synonymous with waterfall fame, at least in Thailand. Literally located at the end of one of Southeast Asia's most twisting and winding roads (just over 1200 curve's until the next district of Mae Sot) national tourists flock here, not to experience the torturous road, but to visit Thi Lo Su, claimed to be Thailand's 'largest' waterfall (height 200m, breadth 400m, see blog entry on Waterfalls of Thailand). Wikitravel adds that it's among the worlds six most beautiful waterfalls.

As apparently the final 40 km of road from Umphang village to the waterfalls are closed during the rainy season (visit took place early October 2010) visiting the waterfalls is not a lightly undertaken mission, an offer my son was not willing to give.

Heading into the wild.

So we opted for second best, rafting down Mae Klong river (which is another reason Thai tourist flock to here outside of the rainy season). Though Thi Lo Sur wouldn't be on the cards, a delightful hot spring (see Soaking in Siam) and the undisturbed wilderness would. And there's the sensation of floating on the raft below a waterfall, the waterfall called Thi Lo Jau (Thi Lo Cho or Saifon) Both translate (from Karen and Thai) as rainbow.
Apparently once the sun shines early morning you can see a rainbow. Despite this info and the urgency to get there early, the sun wasn't shining so no neat pictures of the rainbow. But no need to worry internet guarantees that somewhere there is the picture perfect of the waterfall and rainbow in one.

Because of the remoteness of Thi Lo Jau, boat is the only option in getting here and the only option in experiencing the falls as it is located in a canyon like setting: both banks of the river are steep rocks. Boats / rafts leave from just outside of Umphang village and in season combine a visit to Thi Lo Su, while out of season one needs to walk (3-4 hours) and add an overnight stay. In the rainy season though, after a total of 5 hours, you and the raft are brought back the 25+ kms to Umphang.

World of waterfalls has beaten me to posting this on their blog, much better photo's too.

Another similar fall.

There are more waterfalls along the way, some bigger some smaller. This one (see photo's below) on a side river has it's own name, Mor something.

Elsewhere in and around Umphang, besides the two waterfalls above there are the waterfalls of Le Tong Khu, Thi Lo Rae, Sepla (Se Pla or Ze Pala) and even Thi Cha Na Ta.

A lot of Calamus

Heading south from Mae Sot towards Thailand's wild west capital of Umphang, there are a few opportunities to visit some waterfalls. One of which is the often visited Pha Charoen waterfall located in the national park of the same name.
However as one also has to return via the same road there's another opportunity to visit a waterfall in the same national park without everybody being stressed out about yet again a waterfall.

Pa Wai (or Ba Wai) waterfall is well signposted off the Umphang - Mae Sot highway no. 1090 though the distance from the highway is not the announced 9 km rather double. Access is south of Phop Phra district around km 40.


Apparently the name of the waterfall is derived from the plant of the same name (Calamus Caesius, rattan, see also below).

There aren't many facilities other than a toilet and a shelter, though there are a couple of makeshift bridges.

In reality the stream falls over a great many steps amounting to a fall of around 40m. As the steps are small and wide there are many trees in-between giving the area something special, though there is no big pond at the bottom of the falls, there are a number of steps to splash around in.


On the other side there is a deep sink hole (see photo above) where a part of the stream falls in, only to reemerge at the foot of the cliff. there is also a cave for those visitors fortunate enough to have a torch on them all the time. And a large tree at the bottom of the cliff.

The official Thai Department of National Parks website there is this about the waterfall:

'Bawai [Pa Wai] waterfall is a 100-step limestone waterfall, originating from Huai Wai with the flowing water throughout the year. The Waterfall is situated in virgin forest consisting of medium-sized/large plants. The Waterfall is called “Bawai Waterfall” because there are a lot of Calamus Caesius within the area'.

From wikitravel:

'To admire this waterfall, one must walk from its ground floor to the upper level. Then, go further for around 30 m, visitors will see a channel of about 10 m wide where flowing water falls and disappears under the mountain base. The waterfall originates from Pa Wai Creek where water flows all year round and many rattan plants grow. It is therefore named ‘Pa Wai’, which means a rattan forest'.

Name-giving

Naming an extensive national park (855 km2) according to just one of the included waterfalls reaps up dreams of a magnificent and all-encompassing waterfall.

So when heading to Pha Charoen (Pa Charoen) waterfall we were expecting just that. The waterfall can hardly be missed and entails no extra effort if you heading on highway 1090 between Mae Sot and Umphang, Tak province, Thailand.

Located a km from the turnoff (km 37) the biggest surprise is that one can enter this national park free, though one does need to sign something.
The parking area looks well-equipped to contain those many visitors eager to see the name-giving waterfall of this national park. The foot of the waterfall has been transformed into a park, complete with fitness track. And the bottom of the fall is certainly picture perfect but would I name a national park after this waterfall?
No, not really. Though very nice, it's not so extraordinary. In all there are 97 steps as the stream tumbles down 50 m (source) apparently, didn't count them myself.

We continue upwards along the side of the fall looking for a more discreet dipping place. Along the way there are some enticing pools but we seem to have adopted some youth whose day needs spicing up in the form of tagging along with foreigners. Beyond the lip of the fall, the stream still continues to drop, less in height but with bigger pools. But our bodyguard doesn't loose sight of us, so we return an illusion lighter. Other time other place.

Beyond the lip

Pha Charoen National Park contains more waterfalls such as Pa Wai, Saifa, Huai Tapu-kor, Nang Chron and Taralak (or Thararak).

World of waterfalls includes this waterfall as well with roughly the same sort of blog entry as above but with more photo's and a video, and complaints about visitors walking in the picture. It's funny but from many photo's on the web, it seems that this waterfall is visited more for ecstatic reasons, nowhere do we see people splashing around.

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