Hit or miss? The latter

Kampot province is Cambodia is largly well-known because of the natural setting, at the foot of a high mountain range (Bokor), the sea and a fertile plain. The town of Kampot lies on a broad river which springs from the Bokor mountains. Visits to town seem to mean that a visit to the nearby Tek Chou rapids is called for, them being just 5 kms upstream from town.

Until now (January 2010) I've been able to avoid this tourist trap, simply because it's that. But all things must come to an end and thus last month I visited Teuk Chou (or Tek Chhou). There's a blanket charge for visitors, which seems steep for what one gets. One gets nothing. Along a 100 m stretch of the river, about 10,000 stalls are vying for the best place and get visitors to stay and spend some cash. Between the river and the stalls is a dirty area which seems to make this a natural area to be enjoyed redundant. And it seems that with the dam just upstream under construction the river and the rapids themselves have gone, leaving behind a couple of pools of tepid and dirty water. Avoid at all cost.

More photo's from internet:

Photo's from times with more water. Sources above and below.

Do note that this is only my opinion. Under the caption

'Teuk Chou's brook nevelrfails to win local and foreign fans'

comes the following first hand experience:

'It was not difficult to find 'Teuk Chou'- a local out-of-sort resort by a rocky brook only a few minutes drive from town. On arrival, we were greeted by many stalls by the road selling all sorts of foodstuff and fruits.
As we got out of our vehicle, we were immediately approached by food vendors rushing and pleading to take our order for lunch. These vendors can be quite persistent but since we needed lunch anyway, we permitted this big lady to lead us to a place under a tree by the stream. This was a makeshift platform made from some planks and neatly covered by a grass mat. Under the shade of trees by the stream, it was really quite cozy and comfortable.
We ordered lunch and, believe it or not, they actually served a full meal with fish, vegetables, chicken, soup and rice. The place was quite crowded with holiday-makers picnicking and having fun in the water.
The water in this rocky stream was crystal clear and cooling as well but unfortunately it appeared as though it was fast drying up and there was not much left to cater to the crowd, all rushing for what's left of deeper areas. For us, it was a rather pleasant place to have lunch'.

Teuk Chou's time is up apparently, recent reports [March 2011] on the Khmer 440 forum refer is as a 'fetid creek'. Certainly not worth a visit.

Elsewhere in Kampot province reference is made to Anlong Thom waterfall. Anyone been there?

Cascade of Falls

Cambodia is not really well known for it's waterfalls and when it does, these seem to be all located east wards in the mountainous area near the Vietnamese border.

However those familiar with the Bokor mountains will have to admit that a mountain range located close to the coast is bound to have a waterfall or two. Which is the case though they are mostly unknown. The Kampot Survival Guide mentions a number of unnamed waterfalls which flow mostly during the monsoon which usually lasts a little longer here. Known to locals but with little details for tourists.

Prek Thnaut is one of these lesser known waterfalls or better said a cascade of smaller falls located not far from the road to Sihanoukville, roughly 25 km from Kampot. From the road one needs to pay attention to a school, on the north side of the road. Follow the dirt road to and around this school and one comes to Prek Thnaut visitor center, though as mostly visitors are expected during the monsoon and in the weekend, the center will mostly be deserted. Then again Save Cambodia's Wildlife, a nationally operating NGO is trying to promote community based ecotourism here so the center may not always be deserted. More info from Cambodia's Community Based Ecotourism Network.

Park the car here and continue on foot for another 200 m and you'll see various tracks diverging from the main track to different pools / falls. The falls are mostly of 1 m height with small tubs beneath each.

Our visit here was in late December 2009. Water was still flowing and the pools were still refreshing though one can imagine that in April / May nothing would be flowing ... Then again come in September and you'will be swept away (literally?).

Tip: Take a bike from Kampot, the road is less traveled. Stay closer at the Nataya.

Update (August 2010): the Cambodian NGO, Save Cambodia's Wildlife, is stopping assistance here due to lack of donor funding. They have however published a brochure which is distributed throughout Kampot.

Swirling Clouds

Bokor mountain is a well known mountain side resort near Kampot, Cambodia. Better is to speak in past tense or in future tense, because at the moment that I'm posting this, access is restricted as one of Cambodia's wealthiest tries to revamp the former home of this nation's pokies.

But why would the gamblers flock to this mountain top only to make losses? Better is to take profit from the natural surroundings which are outstanding.

Essentially Bokor is a wide mountain plateau 1000m high just kilometers inward from the sea. Mists and the absence of activity give it an eerily silence.

Besides this silence, mist, cold and the ruins of better times there is one waterfall, Popokvil (Swirling Clouds), existing of two steps. The visitor arrives at the top of the second step, about 15m high. He/she crosses the stream and walks down to the rock plateau between the two. Here one can take a direct shower or try to bathe in some holes in the rocks. Continuing on the far side one can go to the bottom of the first waterfall (20 m) for a brisker shower (see top photo). Below the falls huge rocks are strewn about.

Essentially access was via driving up the mountain and instead of going to the former casino, head east over a track to a car park from where one can walk in 10 minutes to the falls. But alas due to the ongoing construction access is not available. An oddity is that this is officially a national park ....

Both accomodation as well as food is available from Kampot town itself. We were able to visit the falls in April 2008.

The plateau between the steps.

From the top of the second step.