Waterfalls of Southeast Asia

From a distance ...

2012-01-24T12:25:00.000-08:00

Namtok Ngao waterfall is located just outside of Ranong town, heading southwards. It is not to be missed as this cascade spectacularly falls over the cliffs, just a couple of kilometers from the main road (see photo above).

Especially spectacular towards the end of the monsoon, they are still very discernible from the road at any time of the year.

Getting close up is possible by getting entry to Namtok Ngao National Park. Another good source of information is here.
Mostly covering the main mountain ridge, there are a few other waterfalls in this national park, but none as easy accessible as Ngao. That said, the waterfall is something to be seen from a distance, rather than up close where the specific spectacularity fades. Such that a nearby treeless hill (Phu Khao Ya) actually acts as an attractive view point of the Ngao waterfall, 10 kms away!

There is a hot spring not too far away from the main road in the same Namtok Ngao National Park, Porn Rang. Having been spruced up to the tune of $1 million (source), it's a very entertaining place to take a soak and enjoy the scenery. And the national park plays host to Pu Chao Fa a rare freshwater crab (source). Another great fact.

Massage please

2012-01-07T23:40:00.000-08:00

Don't enlarge this picture!

About 10 km south of Suk Samran, on Thailands Highway 4 between Ranong and Takua Pa, just north of a bridge, an attentive passer-by will see a wearied and worried signboard, pointing inland, inwards to Suan Mai waterfall, part of Sri Phang Nga National Park, home to many new and unknown waterfalls.
The small road first passes some kampong houses, crosses a bridge and slowly climbs up through rubber and palm oil plantations, interspersed with some durian orchards, ripe for the picking.
The road deteriorates, then improves. After deteriorating again, one needs to continue going straight in a sharp left hand corner. The road gets steep and enters a protected environment with what was once a parking area before a steep hairpin to an office with some tired looking government staff.

After stepping out of the car, one hears the rushing stream. Following a wide track and then a smaller track along a waterpipe, the 10 minute ‘trek’ ends at the foot of a nice 20 m high waterfall, Suan Mai.

Beneath the fall is a great pool to cool off and swim up for a natural back massage. Another nice find.

The surroundings are still very natural and pristine, despite the relative accessibility of these falls from the highway.

Interesting background knowledge is the website of the Andaman coast community tourism. It highlights some lesser well known waterfalls near Kuraburi. Other than this mention there is not much other information on the internet, it's very far away from anything remotely touristic, but as said a great find.

Gem hunting

2011-12-01T12:50:00.000-08:00

Khao Lak, north of Phuket, Thailand, seems to be well-known for it’s coast line, but surprisingly the coast is haphazardly developed to the extent that development kills the exact source of it's charm. Sure there are signature resorts, but outside of this, the tourist ghetto’s are over optimistically hoping to cash on the non-existent tourist. Maybe in some times of the year, the plethora of rooms are full and the trade for suits infinitive, but otherwise it’s all dread and drudgery, alas.

So why the trade has failed to see the gems within eyesight is a mystery? Khao Lak’s coast has a series of waterfalls just beyond the main drag with it’s line of tourist business.

At the northern end, you’ll be able to visit the easily accessible Bor Hin waterfall. Just north beyond the Royal Bangsak Resort, look for the huge school on the mountain side of the road and take the first turn inland. The small road winds itself through rubber and palmoil plantations and ends after 2 km directly at the foot of the falls.

In front of you, you can see the waterwall, with a number of channels, the water sliding down about 20m. It seems to have seen better times, management is non-existent, despite it being a nice location. Some refuse has gone awol, but is not an eyesore.

Along the roadside a track takes you to the top of the falls. Possibly going even higher would bring one to more falls and / or swimming holes, but as it was rainy season, the rocks were particularly slippery.Bor Hin definitely does not see many tourists and info on the internet is scarce. In fact there is hardly anything beyond the odd mention. Gran moskys has an entry on waterfalls on the Khao Lak coast reachable by bicycle.

Plunge jacuzzi

2011-11-03T11:36:00.000-07:00

View from the old road

Ease of access is key to most Thai waterfalls, but seldom is access so guaranteed as to Punyaban (or NamTok SetTakuat, source) which falls nearly onto highway 4, just north of Ranong town.

In the sharp U shaped turn, the old bridge and both banks are used to create a park like area with the 50 m waterfall as natural backdrop. Near the parking areas are two small restaurants as well as amenities block (or two). One can walk below to the stream level and safely go up to the base of the waterfall.

Strongly recommended is to take the nature trail path on the north side. Steep, it’s well laid, though not often utilized. The educative element has slightly became a victim of time, the trail itself climbs beyond the lip to a smaller fall and beyond this to a 10 m fall.

View towards Myanmar

With a beautiful view as well as the solitude gained so close to the mad world as represented by a major highway, this area above the larger waterfall entices one to become one with nature and plunge in the natural rock jacuzzi’s or get immersed under the falls them selves.

Up beyond the main waterfall are some great skinny dip pools.

More info can be obtained from cathy and gary's travel page entry on Punyaban. Note that the waterfall i s just 10 minutes drive north of Ranong town, it counts 3 levels but only 20m height. Their end note:

'Punyaban Waterfall - Beautiful Place'

Others mention the nature trail heads back down on the other side.

Lonely Planet rates Punyaban as no. 5 of the 11 things to do in Ranong.

Interestingly the blog waterfallsonstamps names Punyaban as one of his 9 stamps of waterfalls from Thailand (from 1980, 2 THB!).

Anyway, Punyaban is definitely a contender for top 10 waterfall position in Thailand.

Just one of the pools waiting for you to quit your sweaty clothes!

Rainbow splashes

2011-10-02T11:39:00.000-07:00

Such is life. There's hardly anything of notice at Chum Saeng waterfall, but still the 3-legged dog wandered down the road for 200m just in case.

A great road for waterfall hunting is the road between Chumphon and Ranong, especially on the Ranong side of the water divide.

Chum Saeng waterfall is the first signposted waterfall along the way, km's from the main highway interchange 80 km's before Ranong. It's on the south side of the road near km's 529/530. The waterfall is only 3,5 km from the main road.

The local roads department have foreseen larger things for Chum Saeng and have built a two lane highway from the main highway straight to the foot of the falls. Nothing has been left to coincidence and a once beautiful park-like surroundings would have existed. Not anymore unfortunately, as maintenance has failed to keep up with visitors resulting in a under utilization of the site as well as the slow accumulation of refuse making it increasingly desolate location.

It’s a nice view though, 50m or so of the fall. Further back the view is more impressive than being just underneath the fall.

RideAsia.net have gps coordinates (N10.30.030 E098.53.029) though they also mention there was no water in the falls during the dry season. Wikipedia adds:

'In the rainy season, a lot of water cascades down the boulders in rainbow splashes. This is how it is called “Namtok Sai Rung” or Rainbow Waterfall'.

No rainbows in the dry season!

No quite a rainbow yet.

Thai-tour.com adds:

'Sai Rung which means a rainbow in named according to the splashing figure of the waterfall resulting from the strong hit of the powerful water agains rocks'.

Of mannequins and monks

2011-09-02T10:39:00.000-07:00

Sometimes you come across a waterfall with a difference. Huai Yang waterfall has something different. Namesake for the surrounding National Park (meaning the requirement for a 100 THB entry fee ...), it's obvious it sees huge numbers of visitors, based on the well paved car park.

Despite this being a weekday, a few cars are pulled in and on the opposite side of the creek is a huge huddle of white clad students acting as if they are listening solemnly to some speech or another.

Unfortunately, just when we hit the track so does the group and swamped by white shirts (which political direction do they support?) we climb up the track. It's a nice climb, once in front of the group.

Keeping ahead and looking behind: level 3.

Up on the ridge one gets to a small shrine. Beyond is a big pond at the foot of a slender fall, the third level of five. Possibly already wearied down tourists are hanging around. But there are more levels to explore. One can jump over rocks to the other side, followed by a scramble over bare rocks. The stream equally forces it's way down over mostly short scrambles. We reach the next level, a delicious pool with a great 15 m fall on the opposite end.

Oddly enough a monk is here, feeding the fish (see lead photo, above), mostly catfish and carpers, largely ornamental varieties. It's a disturbing trend in the maintenance of what are essentially national parks, rearing fish, so as enhance something or another. The more frequented waterfalls of Thailand (read Erawan, Pa La U) seem to be teeming with fish and considering the regular feed supply, it's no wonder.

My son vehemently opposes any swimming with any fish, while my wife decides that it's not her day. I wait for the monk to totter off, undress (that's me) and enjoy another spectacular part of Thailand's nature. Meanwhile praying the fish won't nibble my special parts ...

Alex has a number of photo's, but other than that there is not much than the obvious reference on how to get here: located in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, the waterfall is conveniently accessible from the major highway south (km 350), only a 7 km ride to the foot of the mountains.

There's panaramio.

And travelfish.

Ursula's weekly wanderings has an interesting entry on the spirits of Prachuap Khiri Khan including some photo's which really are weird kind of spirits (mannequins?) which are to be found near the shrine at the first level.

Stacks

2011-08-07T06:44:00.000-07:00

The lowest level seen from above

The details:

'This waterfall is located at km. 556-557 on highway No. 4 3 kms. from Kra Buri township with another 13 kms. on the leftside of the main road along the laterite road to the fall. Bokkrai Waterfall has many steps with fascinating nature surrounding'. source

Bokkrai, Bok Krai or Bok Kray. Sounds and looks pretty clear and this time around, it is clear. The road makes it all the way to Thungraya - Nasak wildlife sanctuary's entrance, another protected area along the spine of Thailand, straggling Burma or the Andaman coast. After we pay the 100 THB entrance fee (~$3) and receive a stack of tickets in exchange (good deal, 30 tickets of 10 THB instead of just the normal 3 of 100 THB), we proceed to the deserted car park just beyond the entrance.

Ranong's landscape is nice and lush, the minor road up to the sanctuary entrance winds it's way through mostly rubber plantations with the odd oil palm plantation thrown in for reasons of variation.

>Anyway once in the sanctuary, the bush is still lush but more lustrous. Quite wet, a good track goes to the namesake waterfall, only 200m away.

Bok Krai, the main lower level.

There one learns that there are more levels, 7 no less and we take the good looking track up. However the higher one climbs the more muddy and less maintained the track becomes, like having to fight oneself through a jungle.

But, what a beautiful place. Well deserted with some the gracious pools. I hate to disturb the free flowing nature with my own natural antics but why else come all the way from the modern world if not to merge with the natura?

Sorry for the disturbance!

Elsewhere on the net are another blog entrance as well as some more photo's by nobythai.

All relax

2011-07-19T21:48:00.000-07:00

Thailand's southern province of Chumphon is not well known touristically, not for it's superb beaches, nor for the beautiful forests containing possibly some great waterfalls.

That said there's not a tourist website that fails to mention the existence of Kapo (Kapoh) waterfalls, to the northwest of the province's capital.

Though why this figures as the most mentioned of this province's waterfalls beats me.

The waterfall is easily accessible from the main highway (no. 4) going south via a very poorly signposted trail. Blink and miss. The access road brings you to a grassy plateau, none of which might give you a clue that you had arrived already. Continue onwards the black top runs out and you end up on a T crossing. Way too far!
The waterfall is near the grass plateau, travel back. Park the car and visit the hardly discernible waterfall.

Apparently somewhere in the past, much effort had been invested in making this a recreation park, but no funding reserved for maintenance.

The 'fall' is a 2 m drop followed by a couple of short drops into a stagnant pool. Due to the fact that this waterfall is near to the highway the effort to pull the car over from chugging down the highway is quite easy. But expectations should be tempered, maybe stock up at a petrol station and have a picnic.

Most web sites refer as follows:

'Located in Tambon Salui, this waterfall is 13 kilometres from Tha Sae, along Phetkasem Road, between 466th 468th kilometre, or from Pathomphon Crossroad, by Petkasem Road for about 30 kilometres. The park has the area of 7,010 Rai of shaded forests and small waterfalls, suitable for relaxation' (source).

The Bangkok Post adds:

'It is a pleasing dappled park with a small waterfall and many species of plants appropriate for natural science study and relaxation'.

Kohtaotoday puts the following description:

'The park has a pleasant atmosphere of cool forest with a small waterfall flowing. All year round. There are many kinds of the plants, the residents of some birds kinds of the animals. This park is suit able for relaxation'.

Downstream

Deadly

2011-07-10T07:05:00.000-07:00

Khao Sok National Park is a funny kind of place. Due to it's relative proximity to Phuket / Khao Lak, the ability to use it as a stopover from these places to / from Samui ferry and being just one km from a nice highway, it see's it's fair share of tourists. So much so, that a village of lodges, minimarts, travel agencies and cafe's / restaurants has sprung up.

Besides the facts of access, the reasons for a visit include the entrance point to one of Thailand's biggest and most spectacular national parks, the impressive craggy scenery and deliteful meandering stream that finds it's way through the various bungalow operations. A poorly translated blog site names Khao Sok as no. 2 in Thailands list of top 10 national parks.

An acquaintance with the steamy jungle is on the cards. Khao Sok offers a number of trails, along some streams. Having done these trails already 20 years back, one would expect some improvement. But none of that. Though the village has expanded exponentially, the national park has little to show for 20 years of high entrance paying tourists. One is still leant on to take a guide to destinations just beyond a ninety minute walk over a 4WD track. Going beyond is forbidden without a guide, at least in the wetter half of the year. Such is the pressure that even to this point of return groups of tourists see themselves compelled to hire a guide which is ridiculous.

Though I might see some safety element in this, it questions why the same practice does not take place elders. Or why simply the trails are made safe enough for independent tourists. But maybe keeping the guide trade in business trumps all other reasons.

Anyway, mid 2011, we took the walk up the Khlong Sok as far as possible which leads to amongst a couple of swimming holes, the waterfall of Wang Hin. Wang Hin sits on a small tributary on the opposite bank of the main Khlong.

Beyond the Khlong, Wang Hin waterfall.

Further upstream are the waterfalls of Bang Leiap Nam and Ton Kloi, as well as Than Sawan which is up a side stream. Possibly a guide might be required for this waterfall

From the national park headquarters there is also the possibility to visit Sip-et-Chan waterfall, an eleven tiered waterfall (the translation already says it all). Possibly reachable during the dry season.

Other trekking destinations are the already aforementioned swimming hole (see photo of Bang Hua Raet below) as well as a few more spots for a dip.

Me, getting more wet with water than the customary sweat.

Just outside the national park there is the possibility for tubing (with guide), canoeing (with guide) or elephant trekking.

Over the mountains is the exceptional experience of where a major stream in the park has been flooded for hydropower usage. The lake level has risen enabling boot journeys around and among the towering limestone cliffs, a must-see.

The lake on a rainy monsoonal morning.

Wang Hin waterfall of Khao Sok National Park is located in Surat Thani province, just over 100 km due west along the main 401 highway. Good and recent info on the park is available from Khaosok.com as well as from Khaosokdiscovery.com.

Probably some of the best independent users information comes from Tezza's beaches and islands extensive and updated entry on Khao Sok. He goes to considerable lengths to warn against leeches, I had only the one after 3 hours, which dropped off by itself and the bleeding terminated after a couple of hours.

The leeches contribute to Khao Sok being rated as the one of the World's Deadliest Places to Swim!

'Before you go camping in this national park, be advised. The area is the home to more deadly creatures than any naive tourist can imagine. Huge centipedes the size of an adult man’s arm, man eating sharks[!, there are none!], blood sucking leeches, giant mosquitoes and poisonous caterpillars and Scorpion fish. Getting bitten by leeches is seemingly unavoidable so make sure to take up smoking as leeches hate tobacco. When attacked, mix water with tobacco and pour it over the leech and it should let go. Whatever you do, do not try and remove it by force as it will cause it to release its venom'.

A better perspective to be had is from Thom Henley's Waterfalls and Gibbon Calls (2005).

Barking up a tree

2011-05-18T20:02:00.000-07:00

Ahh, another spelling mischief. Sap Chomphu, Sub Chom Phu, Subchom Poo, pronounciation same-same, just too difficult to spell ...

Anyway, another Phetchabun province waterfall. Not located in a national park, administratively it is seen as an arboretum with waterfall. Or a National Forest Reserve. Barely 30 ha in size.

Getting here is not too difficult, located 8 km south of Nong Phai on highway 21, the access road is from the village market, due west. Just slow down in the village and take the only road west, once on this road there are signs virtually every km, for the 8-9 km it takes to get here.

The road gradually rises as it dissects mango orchards. Late April, the farmers are up early and the road is used as collection unit for the plastic containers full of mangoes, waiting for transport to Bangkok undoubtedly. Despite all the signs along the way, the last one directing you to take a right before the steep incline is non-existent. On this cross road though is a wooden sign which describes this as Sap Chom Phu Arboretum.

Past a few houses one enters along a now empty pond. Behind this are lined a serious amount of stalls and an expansive parking area. No entrance fee is required and one wanders across the bridge. Not many foreigners get this far. This I conclude as the number 1 tell-tale sign, a pack of dogs is barking at the exotic creature (must be a ghost), is all too clear. From beyond the bridge there are a number of trails heading up and I just take one.

Within 2 minutes I am walking alongside a small stream (Sai Ngam Ngam) under huge trees, the trees alone are worth a visit. Some larger examples have been singled out for the yellow ribbon worship.

However the stream itself is a trickle and despite walking as far as possible, the waterfall is only a number of short steps. Possibly these are part of the three waterfalls mentioned as per Bangkok Post.

Waiting for the rain(s)

It's evident that later on, in the rainy season, there are much bigger falls to be experienced, see the picture of a full size poster at the entrance of the falls (below); despite an overnite downpour there's little to be seen, let alone experienced.

My photo's posted here are quite similar to those of the Bangkok Post referenced above, in the absence of the big waterfall.

What it should look like

In all it seems a little depressing as extensive amounts of trash take the shine off the naturalness of the surroundings. Better management might be an idea ...

More photo's from this provincial blog.

Cement

2011-05-09T17:59:00.000-07:00

Saraburi is to most who pass through this province, synonymous with traffic, cement factories and huge Bhuddha's; certainly not with nature.

But surprise, surprise, Saraburi province, despite it's size, contains no less than 2 national parks, Namtok Chet Sao Noi and Phra Phutthachai (sometimes known as Khao Sam Lan). Furthermore there are quite a few waterfalls, some more well known than others. Muak Lek waterfall (tiny), Heo Noi, Sap Heo, Suan Maduea, Sap Pa Wan, Krok Fa Phanang and Khao Khaep.

Dried up
As Khao Sam Lan National Park is listed as having a signature waterfall (Sam Lan) as well as some others (Pho Hin Dat, Ton Rak Sai, Krok I-woe, Nang Chon, Phaeng Ma and Roi Kueak Ma) and it's just outside town towards Bangkok (take road 3042, followed by 3046), it was the destination of the late April day.

Fancy coming up to the entrance and being told that the waterfall was dry. They basically implied that the 200 THB (~$US 6) special entrance fee for foreigners was not worth the sights located further up the road.
Many locals continued but it was said that they were going for the food stalls and to relax, as they don't seem to have to pay an entrance fee.

Oh well better this way than the other way around. Expect much more water later on in the year.

Next stop
I took a long and hard look at the map and decided that Chet Khot (Chetkhot, Jedkot?) waterfall would be do-able, not too far away. I double checked at the national park entrance and they said, yes, expect more water there. Fine.

So eventually back on route 2, in the plethora of traffic. Past cement factories heading to the giant Bhuddha. Ideally you want to turn off in Thap Kwang village, just before the highway starts to rise into the hills. But hey, this is an 8 lane highway, don't do the U-turn, just travel up beyond the next cement factory and there there is a fine overhead U-turn, safety wise better and loads more comfortable than sweating it out while waiting for a break in traffic.

Back in Thap Kwang head left and ask around. Eventually you'll end up on the right road which goes up into the hills for another 10 km or so. Winding itself around and over the hills it passes some smaller villages with small plantations. Signage is clear from here.

Surprisingly despite it's proximity to Bangkok there's little touristic development. Eventually the road ends at a car park, a couple of other cars and about 20 or so motorcycles, no entrance fee is required.

Upstream
There are a couple of buildings around the car park, overlooking a series a small rapids.

On the other side of the stream, a track disappears into the forest. It's a 1,5 km track which traverses the stream about halfway. At the end is brilliant pool with about a 10m high waterfall.

Young lads (owners of the motorcycles) are jumping off the cliff and generally seeking some kind of attention. A beautiful spot, but even on a Tuesday too spoilt by my fellow humans.

I walk up the side of the cliff, our youngsters expecting me to jump as well, but no (thank you), I just continue up the stream. There's no path but wading through the stream and scrambling over the rocks, brings more sought-after solitude, another beautiful spot.

Around
I hope it stays like this, my map also has a dotted red line crossing closeby the falls, the motorway no. 6 project. Yikes!

There is surprising amounts of info available on Chet Khot especially as somewhere nearby there's a nature study center (or here) located which arranges treks to more waterfalls in the area; Chet Khot Nue, Chet Khot Klang, Chet Khot Tai, Chet Khot Yai, Khao Raet (or Khao Khaep?), Krop Fa Phanang and Krok I Dok.
Andy has stayed overnite. Wow.

There's an article from the Bangkok Post (September 2006) about a visit here, including his or her experiences while trekking to Krok E-Dok waterfall, 8-10 kms from the center, but surprisingly under two hours of walk!

Kitaro has a photo overview of Klong Pakkham in Chet Khot forest.

Well, now I know Bangkokians have no reason not to escape town ...

Horn-billing

2011-05-02T00:27:00.000-07:00

Phetchabun province is just over 4 hours easy drive from Bangkok, but it's a great place to visit which (despite it's proximity) still receives next to no tourist; even Lonely Planet doesn't mention this beautiful province!

In essence, Phetchabun province is a wide north-south valley, crammed between at first hills, later on 1000+ m, so no wonder that waterfalls are a major feature, though surprisingly scarcely visited.

One of the lesser known national parks in Phetchabun is that of Tat Mok, considering that the province also contains the Hin Rong Kla national park. The 290 square km Tat Mok National Park is named after it's signature waterfall which is said to be a 1-level 200-300m high waterfall

Getting here is not too difficult, from Phetchabun town head southeast and take road no. 2271 until it reaches road 2275. A right turn is required and then quite quickly the entrance to the park will need a left turn. From the entrance it is 18 km over a mountainous road to the road head.

Not many foreigners make it this far up-country and after the ticket lady contains her surprise thereafter followed a frantic scram (involving 4 staff members) to find the correct 200B entrance tickets, nearly 7 $US (April 2011).

It takes about half an hour to drive the deserted road to it's ultimate destination. Going up there are two larger viewpoints, if clear one could easily see Phetchabun town. After the first hill there are some more offices and a campground, beyond seems to receive even less visitors. At a certain moment I need to get out and remove a large branch from the otherwise good road. The valley gets more narrower and ends at a small car park with some amenities, but no one seems to be hanging around on a late Monday afternoon.

The track then starts and should last for nearly 3 km, 45 minutes. It's not often that in Thailand there are long walks possible (Thai's prefer drive-in nature) and certainly not well signposted ones. The trail hugs either side of the stream and has seen better times. On narrower sections, the improved pathway has been washed away as do all bridges. Attempts have been made to keep the track passable and it really is a nice beautiful walk.

An improvised bridge

Finally one comes to a section where the trail splits, the lower path continues onward for another 200m to the Song Nang waterfall (or Songnang)whereas the higher steps should take you to Tat Mok.

As rain is threatening with clear intentions of today's daylight being curtailed, I skip the Tat Mok part, as it is a high waterfall but with little water.

Instead the Song Nang waterfall is in front of me. It's a 10 level waterfall with delicious pools to skin dip in, yeah!

Author chillin

After chilling out it's time to return, drops of rain are falling. The best part of this is that birdlife are welcoming the moist and are out in numbers, audible though not visible. A salvo of larger cries leads me to believe that horn-bills are overhead and low and behold at an opening I see no less than 10 juveniles frolicking in the tree tops.

Back at the end of the road, there is still a great place to rinse off the return sweat before returning to civilization.

There are a couple of web sites on Tat Mok, mostly poorly translated from Thai, resulting in a load of gibberish, see for instance

'Tat Mok - two waterfalls her'.

sbayura.com has a good posting on Tat Mok / Song Nang including extensive photo's.
Thaiways has a picture of level 6.

Nearby is the hot spring of Nam Rong, possible as a post walk soak.

By Bhuddha

2011-04-28T21:36:00.000-07:00

Intro
Signs say it's Wang Kan Lueng, others prefer Wang Kan Lueang whereas Wang Kan Luang seems to result in the most finds.

Probably Lopburi (Thailand) province's only waterfall, it will come to a surprise to many that there is even a waterfall in this mainly flat province. Better known for it's sunflower fields, the surrounding rolling hills are packed with to be planted cassava and/or to be harvested sugarcane; there's little to suggest in the geology nor in the landscape that hidden between the fields are a beautiful series of cascades.

Accessed from road 2089, Muak Lek - Chai Badan, entry is about 7 km north of the intersection with 2256 and the town of Tha Luang. The entry road heads west towards the floodplains formed by the Pa Sak Jolasid Dam. Only a km in length and extending on both sides of the stream, one soon arrives at the entrance proper: a car park with an impressive amount of food and knick-knack stalls.

Bhuddha
Effort has been made to keep the surroundings attractive, despite the lack of official protection by forest or national park administration; more often than not the way waterfalls are protected in Thailand.
Part of these efforts are directed by the erecting of a number of Buddha statues, Pae and Guy have a small blog entry solely on these statues.

All lined up

Exploitation
Officially described as an arboretum, there's not much to suggest that this is really the case. Just above the falls, a bridge extends to the other side which also has a large car park with vending stalls. Walk down stream past the main part of the falls and there is yet again a large bridge so one can make a circular route around the falls.

Gazing down

The main part of the falls are a rocky drop of about 5m. It's obvious that the underlying rock contains large amounts of calcium and the water changes colour to white/grey.

Above the falls are a number of vendors renting out picnic mats and inner tubes and judging by the height of the stacks, on certain days there must be heaps of visitors, Bangkok only 2,5 hours away. Above the falls are also some ponds to splash around in.

Betting on tubing

Below the falls, waters continue to drop creating small pools as the stream jumps in half meter / meter intervals. This section of the falls is impeccably clean and well-managed.

Further away
Downstream of the fall proper, extends a nature walk, hugging the north side of the stream. In places the stream becomes stagnant, but beyond the nearest stagnant section the stream continues it's jumping pattern. On a Monday morning there are some families near the main section of the falls, but at this time further downstream it's totally deserted. More worrying though is that refuse management does not extend this far and there is quite a bit of wind blown rubbish to be observed. The natural habitat evaporates and up to the edge of the stream are teak plantations. However each stream fall is followed by a waterhole, just the place for a secluded dip.

Web
Internet gives some other experiences, though most are positive. Paul Garrigan, a Lopburi located blogger, is quite surprised his province heralds a waterfall and despite his possible misgivings is quite impressed:

'When I caught my first glimpse of Wang Kan Lueang I was impressed straight away. I am no stranger to waterfalls in Thailand; for five years I lived in a village that is situated around a stunning ten level waterfall. Once we descended down some steps to Wang Kan Lueang it turned out to be a lot more crowded than I was expecting; I automatically regretted not bringing my swimming trunks because the water looked great and there were quite a few people already having fun'.

Melissa Swenson has a few pics from an equally good time. On flickr there are parts of sets by Joel Oh and lucaskt.

Updates

2011-04-19T19:09:00.000-07:00

It's probably the first time I have used this blog for updates. Usually if there are updates I add them to the postings, keeping everything much more current.

However, it's not common for waterfalls to make news headlines and unfortunately it's mostly for the wrong reasons.
From addyjagat an extensive article on the death of a British women who fell down 100m on the Ton Nga Chang waterfall, 25 km from Hat Yai, southern Thailand.

'... slid about 30ft down the sloping rock-face before plunging off the steep 300ft drop'.

We tend to forget that waterfalls can be dangerous and the above is just another wake-up call. No doubt the authorities will come with extensive measures to avoid this happening in the future, though warning people always seems to be the most sensible.

Horrific and tragic.

Other news worth mentioning is that travelfish blogs are getting entries on waterfall hunting around Chiang Mai, up to now two great entries.

Past the bear pit

2011-04-04T18:43:00.000-07:00

Part of the Yang Bay Tourist Park complex or at least just outside the most developed part of this tourist development complex, Ho Cho waterfall is a wide low waterfall, in all descending 6-8 m. I guess. Below is a great pool where one can take a very undisturbed swim. At least during the week, when visitors are few and far between.

That's for now. It's quite strange, this lack of even a decent track, slam-bam next to Yang Bay Tourist Park. Instead of going to Yang Bay waterfall itself, once inside the 'park' one takes the left road past the bear pit, tribal game place and orchid garden. Abruptly the wide road stops (10 minutes after taking the road) at a wild stream.

A small path continues through the high grass to the river where a small log has been laid over the first 2 m of the river crossing; the rest can be achieved by jumping from rock to rock. On the other bank of the river, the track continues through the forest until it hits the rock-face of the waterfall itself. No track beyond this by the look of it. Time for a dip.

The Yang Bay Tourist Park companies brochure describes Ho Cho as follows:

‘To be deep in the forest. Ho-Cho waterfall is considered as a challenge to visitors. Ho-Cho waterfall also owns a lot of hot mineral water sources helpful for cure’.

Well, the effort required can not be described as a challenge, it is pretty easy. I'm unsure about the hot spring claim though, it certainly was not apparent.

Another link to the possibility of there being mineral water is here:

'After a refreshing dip, visitors can relax in a natural hot spring'.

As stated in the Waterfalls of Southeast Asia blog entry on Yang Bay, management may want to expand the mineral water on offer and add in some mud (as in the success of Thap Ba hot spring).

It's a pity that not much is made of the current mineral water facilities, if existing.

Despite the development, Yang bay and certainly Ho Cho are worth the effort.

Tax man. Not.

2011-03-28T18:36:00.000-07:00

It's not often that a waterfall is included in this blog which I didn't go myself, in fact this is a first.
My wife was in Cambodia's western province of Pailin, not a place often visited. There she visited the Olavao waterfall, on her way back from Pailin.

There's some confusion on the name. Travelfish notes it as Otavao:

'If you're going to spend the day in Pailin, Otavao Waterfall is the area's top attraction. It's an easy trek to the top with several different sets of stairs along the way that lead down to the falls.
An unnamed restaurant is at the top and offers Khmer food and cold drinks. It's a great place to rest as it overlooks the falls and offers marvellous views of the surrounding lush scenery.
Several canopies are dotted along the falls and serve as good spots for resting or a picnic. It's best visited during rainy season, but either way, you'll likely have the site to yourself'.

O Tavauv is what the falls are according to Zepp (2):

'The falls are privately owned, by none other than I Chien, govenor of Pailin and son of Ieng Sary. This is not a National Park, and is yet another example of the Cambodian elite using their official position to further enrich themselves. And yet, they are performing a public service. It is the same system that cannot collect taxes for education but which gives you Hun Sen schools'.

Zepp goes to say that there are in fact seven falls.

This website mentions O'Tavoa.

Matt Jacobson's (2) describes how you need to return to just outside Pailin (under 2 km) and turn to your right. After 4+ km there's a ticket booth and then it's nearly another 3 kms before you reach the waterfall. Matt mentions it as being a 4-tier waterfall, but my wife said there were many tiers ...

Some great swimming holes and during the week it's near-deserted. Though recent construction of access roads and stalls and mountains of garbage indicate that in weekends the story is different.

Despite not swimming herself my wife did indicate that the swimming holes were big ...

Notes:
(1) Jacobson, M. (2008) Ultimate Cambodia. Coastal Books, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
(2) Zepp, R. () Around Battambang. 2nd Edition. Tean Thor association, Battambang, Cambodia.

Cemented this one

2011-03-23T19:28:00.000-07:00

Docile
It’s always difficult to present nature in it’s original state to tourists, such that it is appealing. Apparently, in Vietnam nature is required to be conquered before it can be appreciated. Conquered by the masses.

Yang Bay waterfall ("waterfall of the heaven") ranks as Khanh Hoa’s number one inland tourist location. Why? Because it’s been tamed and enhanced?

Enhancing includes a bear pit, a crocodile enclosure and a fish lake. An area where one can experience local ethnic customs, such as pig racing. And listening to a music performance by the local Raglai:

'Gia Rai residents are proud of their musical ability and are only too happy to entertain visitors. They play traditional instruments such as the chapi, t’rung, tacung flute, taleploi clarinet and the dan da (stone instrument)'. source

Taming means wide lanes and lots of cement. Making (and applying) rules. And cordoning sections off to make sure the masses stay docile ...

But it’s a waterfall! Hmmm.

Entrance
Located at nearly 50 km west of Nha Trang, the capital of Khanh Hoa, currently the access road heading west is being reconstructed. In absence of the completion one needs to take the only other road west, Highway 26A (to Dalat) which goes through the 17th century citadel of Dien Khahn. Eventually one heads more southwards into more hillier terrain, the hills covered with cassava and sugarcane.

Then over a higher hill one suddenly is at Yang Bay with it’s wide tree lined roads. One parks close to the ticket office (30,000 VND, ~ US$ 1,50) and as with me I apparently also bought a ticket (another 10,000 VND) for inside the park transport.

A golf cart brings me up 300m to a place closer to the falls. Here’s a restaurant and a number of outlets selling everything but a good cup of coffee. This being an early morning through the week visit, it’s nice and quiet. Hardly any visitors and a lot of cleaning going on. It certainly is clean; hurray for businesses taking over the nature.

About 100m beyond the stop the road is back at the level of the stream. On the other bank of the river is a smaller waterfall called Yang Khang which functions as backdrop to the above mentioned music show.

Yang Khang waterfall, note that one is not allowed on the rocks themselves ...

Yang Bay
In the mainstream is the Yang Bay waterfall: a wide fall of a number of steps, going down by as much as 20m. A wide path brings one to the top of the fall where it’s probably intended to take a photo and return back to civilization.

Beyond this point is a wide boulder strewn valley floor, which provably extends for a lot further. Travelfish describes there being another set of falls about a kilometer up. Instead of seeking this other set, I decide to see if another waterfall closeby, Ho Cho is reachable. See the upcoming blog entry on this fall.

Yang Bay

Even though over-commercialized and sanitized, Yang Bay is still worth the visit; at least if there are not too many visitors. Lines have been set out showing where one can (or must) swim and it’s certainly safe, albeit overly civilized.

First hand experience by other visitors is not easily to come by. Travelfish mention:

'The main falls have been heavily modified, and some swimming areas have been artificially created, but the effect is fairly natural and quite beautiful'.

Wikitravel adds:

'It used to be a lot nicer before they built it but it is still a very nice place to visit'.

Under-construction
The current situation is only a situation which consists from mid-2008, when the part underwent an upgrade to the original construction of 2004 (source). The owner of Yang Bay Tourist Park is the company known as Khatoco. Besides industrial activities and the local professional football of Nha Trang, it is responsible for the 570 ha park. In a news item the company is said to have more plans:

'We plan to invest billions of dong in Yang Bay. We want to build a mud bath and a high-end resort,” Khanh said with a smile surveying the beautiful countryside. “Then more people will be able to enjoy the nature and the loveliness of the reserve'.

Hmmm, I might have some reservations of this type of tourism which caters to masses. Then again, commercial interests have some potential unforeseen consequences:

'Le Cong Ra, director of the Yang Bay Tourist Park, said he and his subordinates are very worried knowing that loggers are destroying the forest in the upper part of the Yang Bay Fall'.

The outcome is more stringent enforcement.

You are here. At the cross road. Left to Ho Cho, straight ahead Yang Bay and Yang Khang.

Falling Fairies

2011-03-14T18:11:00.000-07:00

Entrance to Suoi Tien

Fairies
Suoi Tien is a commonly used name for a water-like attraction in Vietnam. Suoi meaning stream, Tien meaning fairy. So in English not as straight forward as commonly thought. Fairies are an often recurring theme in Vietnamese legends and with Suoi Tien, Khanh Hoa province the legend goes as follow:

'Legend has it that a giant from Binh Dinh Province visited Suoi Tien thousands of years ago. Enchanted by its charm, the giant accidentally slid into the stream. One of his feet landed on a boulder on the bank of the river, flattening it to create a smooth surface in the middle of the stream. The flat stone served as a place for fairies from heaven to play after coming down to earth for a swim. The flat stone is now an ideal resting point for visitors who want to conquer the upstream flow of the river'.

Note that the website from which I gained this insight has a photo of another stream (possibly for fairies) presumably more south (Mui Ne?).

The stream at entrance, with man-made pool.
Note the extensive scarring beyond, a sign of times to come

Getting There
Anyway, this Suoi Tien is located not so far from Nha Trang, the provincial capital. Passed the 17th century citadel of Dien Khahn one takes a left and continues towards the hills, sign boarding is unpredictable. There is also a number of internet sites that imply taking a turn from highway 1, south of Nha Trang in the village of Suoi Dao.
And finally a new by-pass is being built which will alter the directions altogether. The final 1 km up to the foot of the mountain is a poor road , though small scale repairs were underway. A total of 20-25 km from Nha Trang (45 min.).

Plans are being drawn up, according to this reference:

'under a 15 year plan to build hotels, bungalows, regenerate forest, etc'.

So by then it should be less difficult to find!
Considering the amount of scarring this process (construction) is already resulting in (see photo above), the regeneration part will probably entail a long term restoration of what they had initially undertaken. Sims [1] adds:

'Past the parking area a bar, restaurant, and tourist office are under construction. This once hidden gem is under wraps no more!
…
The downside to tourism is evident in all the litter seen strewn about, despite the odd rubbish bin'.

Other references are less expansive. LP [2] has a short paragraph on Suoi Tien:

'This enchanting spring seems to pop up out of nowhere.
…
It has been earmarked as the next big ecotourism site, which paradoxically probably means massive over-development, but it is still peaceful if you hike upstream'.

Anyway despite the nearness to Nha Trang and the obvious attractiveness for recreation, a week day mid-morning, March 2011, sees little or no crowds at all, quite sleepy.

Experience
An entrance fee is required (10,000 VND; ~ US$ 0,50) and then ione can wander up the stream. Despite aforementioned plans, there's still hardly anything to be had, at the entrance; even buying a drink is only just do-able.

The first set of falls which have been enhanced see a large crowd of drunk local teenagers, but continuing onwards through the stream bed one can seek solitude easily.

Enhanced

There's a passage below an overhanging rock and at a certain place an inlet for drinking water. Continuing through the bed stream brings one in still quieter places, though refuse still bears witness to a superior (?) civilisation.

Finally I find a nice sun drenched sandy pool and take an au-naturel plunge and reconnect with my inner-self. Birds everywhere, a nice place indeed.

More
Though not a waterfall in the strictest sense, it does contain many drops of a meter or more. There are a lot of pools to cool off in and if motivated one can continue onward up the mountain. Sims [2] describes continuing as follows:

'Locals say that if you follow the stream to its source, about a two day hike, you’ll reach a magical chess board used long ago by fairies’.

Closeby is another stream, Suoi Nguon which according to Sims [1] misses the extensive development of the other nearby sites (see Ba Ho and Yang Bay) and signifies

‘it’s peaceful atmosphere with little to no other people around’.

Suoi Nguon can be reached by taking the road up Hon Ba mountain. Some pictures of Suoi Nguon are to be seen from this web album.

Notes:
[1] Sims, A. (2010) Nha Trang Guide Book 2011-2012 Edition EBT Media, Nha Trang, Vietnam.
[2] Ray, N., Y.-M. Balasingamchow, I. Stewart (2010) Vietnam. 10th Edition. Lonely Planet, Footscray, Australia

Intoxicating?

2011-03-05T16:25:00.000-08:00

Suoi Ba Ho translates as "Three Pools Stream", which seems to give more credence to the waterholes beneath the three falls. In quick succession these falls find their way down about 100m of granite, hollowing out their lakes and creating a number of great swimming holes.

Unfortunately access is not fantastic. The turnoff from Vietnam's Highway 1 is 20-22 kms north of Nha Trang, the Khanh Hoa provincial capital, located on the south central coast. There’s a larger sign just before the small surfaced road. Three kilometers it says, which implies possibly 3 kms until a T-crossing with no sign there but where one needs to take a left. Continue onwards for about another 3 kms over a poor rough and tumble road, one eventually ends at a car park, in the process of being built into a bungalow park.

Well-shaded by tall trees, the rudimentary car park is along a sluggishly moving stream. On the opposite side are also bungalows being built, certainly marks of forward planning. Vietnamese ecotourism. The best part is that this is the worst part of whatever this development entity calls itself. A quick payment of 20,000 VND (a fraction less than a US $) had ensured entrance but the destination was still a little upstream.

A wide track continues along the stream until it shortcuts a turn and hits the boulder strewn stream itself. From here to the first fall one needs to jump from rock to rock. One gets to the first lake (and fall) after about 45 minutes from the car park.

Surprisingly for a Tuesday mid March, there are two large groups of locals at the lower lake having a merry time, slowly getting intoxicated.

Did I tell you that the National Parks of Thailand want to ban alcohol consumption in their jurisdiction? According to the Nation (December 28 2010) On the one hand, that leaves us folks who can control our intake with empty hands, on the other hand, drunks playing the clown are a part of the past.

Anyway, there’s a track up the side of the canyon, a very steep track. Fifteen minutes up and it’s a steep slide back down. There is also the possibility to use metal rungs drilled into the rockside to pull oneself up to the next features. Up here there’s nobody to be found, a great place to dip the skinny, a personal first for me in Vietnam.

More info from internet are the pages on Ba Ho Falls:

'Therapeutic properties are attributed to the waters of the three pools at Ba Ho Falls'.

Asian waytravel:

'Ba Ho is primitive with its tortuous soil paths, grass covers and green trees drooping down to the rock bedded streams. The romance of nature makes travelers forget daily worries. The interesting thing at Ba Ho is that tourists can step over the rocks to get to the banks. The place is perfect for a picnic. Under the glistening sunlight, tourist can relax in the cool water.

For young people, relaxing in the water is not enough. With a stick and slow careful steps up the path heading to the peak, tourists can take a panorama of the three lakes. In the immense streams, tourists can swim to feel the pure, clear water'.

Ba Ho can be organized together with a boat tour to amongst others Suoi Hoa Lan waterfalls.

Above photo from internet is by jessia22 with the caption

'Nha Trang Ba Ho waterfall- Nadeane jumping'.

History lessons

2011-01-12T21:36:00.002-08:00

Waterfalls are often described in superlatives. Beautiful, incredible, powerful, tremendous.
Or be for it's characteristics. Highest, widest, biggest.

Historic
It's not often that one would say that a waterfall is 'historic'. I've been racking my brains to find a 'historic' waterfall, but other than waterfalls which became history (now hydro-electric generating plants) or waterfalls in regions seeped in history (Schaffhausen) I don't believe that there is a waterfall that can lay claim to be at the foundation of a kingdom/empire.

And exactly that is what is claimed by the waterfall of the Phnom Kulen (or Ku Len, which translates to mountain of the lychee) mountains in Cambodia's Siem Reap province.
Wikipedia describes the historic event as

'it was at Phnom Kulen that King Jayavarma II proclaimed independence from Java in 802 A.D.'

Or in other words, here was were the Khmer nation (some say empire ...) was born.

Apparently it became the first place where a settlement was erected and only after a century was it decided to leave the mountains for the plains of Siem Reap to rule and eventually construct numerous temples and complexes, the most famous relic being Angkor Wat.

So you can imagine what belief this waterfall holds for current day Cambodians.

Lush
Phnom Kulen waterfall can be found in the mountains with the same name. Located about 50 km northeast of Siem Reap, one is surprised by the lush vegetation in what is arguably a very dry area; the mountains are also not very high, averaging just over 400m above sea level.

Getting here involves taking the road to Anlong Veng (from Siem Reap) or the older road to the temples of Banteay Srei. Just beyond Banteay Srei you hit the new road to Anlong Veng on a roundabout in the middle of nowhere which is about 500 m in diameter (seriously). One then takes the eastern most road and after 50m the tarmac stops and one is on a not so bad gravel road. Ten km's up this road, one comes to the gate, the entrance to Phnom Kulen National Park.

The upper fall

Until about a decade ago the waterfall required considerable effort to visit. Then came the idea to put in a road which was awarded to some military official, who now has the right to rule his fiefdom. This means he can charge $20 US per foreigner for the privilege of using his very difficult rough and tumble (but do-able) road up the mont. And absurdly pay another 3,000 Riel (0,75 $US) at the top as a parking fee; what that actually entails is a mystery as vehicles are parked haphazardly between trees. Oh well, that must be how the Cambodian empire started.

Crossroads
After paying the parking fee, one is at a crossroad. Here are three highlights. The waterfall is left, the reclining Buddha is straight ahead while the 1,000 linga's are also over the bridge then right.

We first head to the waterfall and park the car in some shade. Head towards some buildings. Here at the top of the waterfall are a great number of restaurants and rest huts. We are set upon by a group of ladies intent on selling us lunch, even though it's just 10 in the morning. We feign disinterest and head through the throng. First we see a minor waterfall to the right.

Beyond the tree lined lip lies the waterfall itself. We can walk down over wooden steps to the rocks below the 30m high waterfall. Once at the bottom of the waterfall one can scramble along the boulders to cool off under a large pool in the center. Along the sides below the falls, commercialism is still in force, bathing costumes can be purchased, changing rooms and the possibilities to dress up like a local Mondulkiri tribes person (see lead photo) and get one's picture taken are just some of the diversions created to part with one's cash.

The major falls

The waterfall, is very nice, but the rampant commercialism is just too much. Besides the use of every nook and cranny to set up a shop, trash seems to get dumped just beyond the visit site with lots (and I mean lots) of rubbish just drifting over the site. Trash ye historic site and be merri.
Added to the rubbish, shops and sellers is a surprising amount of Cambodia's doubtless masses of unemployed eagerly awaiting a tip for their nuisance of begging. Elsewhere others simply tag on to you like a leech and expect a fee for services rendered (guide?). Not my kind of place ...

Ruined
So, what's historic? Just on the other side of the upper part of the falls are original ruins. The ruins go by the name of Prasat Krau Romneas, apparently dating back to the ninth century.

Not much has been done, or let's say nothing has been done to make this more appealing or, god forbid, protect it from the ravages of tourism. The entry fee only goes so far. Probably adds to someone being able to cruise Phnom Penh in their new Lexus.

Furthermore about 500 m away is the 400+ year old sleeping Buddha on top of a rocky point. More info on this Buddha from Andy Brouwer. A visit is a must if only for the view over the surrounding jungle.
At the foot of this temple is the site where one can rent a moto (and driver) to visit some of the mostly remoter sites on the mountain; a real treasure trove apparently for the more adventurous. For instance: Shra Damrei and Peung Tbal.

Better still, wander down to the river, where the original occupants decided to elaborate the river. It's about 300m above the top fall. Over a stretch of 200m they have built linga's, the site known as 1,000 linga's.
Wikipedia:

'The site is known for its carvings representing fertility and its waters which hold special significance to Hindus. Just 5 cm under the water's surface over 1000 small carvings are etched into the sandstone riverbed. The waters are regarded as holy, given that Jayavarman II chose to bathe in the river, and had the river diverted so that the stone bed could be carved'.

The good entry in peaceofangkorweb laments:

'The 1000 Lingas pre date the ones at Kbal Spean, They are not so extensive or even protected from he feet of locals crossing the river'.

As well as observing the linga's one passes a meter deep spring which by the sight of the make-shift temples holds some current day religious significance. One must note though that as Khmer nowadays are Buddhists but back then they were Hindu's who traditionally hold springs in high esteem as forces of purification.

Just a couple of the thousands of linga's

Internet
As one can deduce protection of Kulen has yet to commence. The Phnom Kulen Program hopes to better understand the significance of Kulen.

On the internet there is plenty of other info, visit records and photo's ... Most significant are besides the aforementioned blog entries by Andy Brouwer, his 1999 record of a visit here. Surprisingly not much (positives) has changed since then ....

Delving Gems

2011-01-01T00:32:00.000-08:00

With close to 100 entries on Southeast Asian waterfalls it's increasingly more difficult to be awed by yet another waterfall.
In general the bigger / higher waterfalls hold little value to me. Directly opposite are those that are relatively untouched, gentle and hold high natural and recreational value, often combined with some difficulties in reaching.

The Lao province of Xieng Khouang, one of this landlocked nations' major tourist destinations, is still a 10 hour plus drive from the capital of Lao, Vientiane. Mostly winding over mountain ridges with the odd descent and ascent of small vales, the bus brings one to the provincial capital of Phonsavan, not so far from a number of sites where we can admire ancient rites which resulted in constructing man-size jars.

Besides these Jars there is much army surplus to be awed by: the Vietnam war leaving behind landscape scars, ruined towns, destroyed lives and the potential to victimize still unborn locals for years to come.
The spectacular natural surroundings command little interest for tourism operators. The waterfalls (named Tad Ka (Tad Kha)) near Tajok village are an exception. But if these would stand for the province's natural beauty, more, much more should be available.

Located a little more than thirty kms to the northeast of Phonsavan, Tajok is easily reachable and typical of the many roadside villages which hug this road. Taking a right in the village, followed by another right 200m down the road one comes to a poor track which heads down the mountain side. Probably poorly accessible during the rainy season (witness Twoelders on travelpod), during the dry season one can continue downwards to a turn off with a large building.

Our guide states that this building accommodates holiday crowds which at the time (December 2010) seems a long shot. We're told to follow a trail uphill along a ridge which seems to contradict the fact that a waterfall is audible from the valley depths. The trail eventually drops steeply (200m?) to the river below. No waterfall, but a beautiful stream which is finding it's way through the picturesque forest. For the next 15 minutes we cross the rivulet often as we head upstream.

Eventually we come to a triple set of larger falls. Beyond the first fall is a nice deep swimming hole. From here we can walk steeply up the slope to the ridge track which ends at the building but from the other side.

A very beautiful waterfall, undisturbed and mostly unvisited. A gem. Unfortunately our memory card is playing up, so no photo's can be made. The following photo is from superstock.com:

'Waterfall in the forest near Phonsavan.
The waterfall is popular visiting the Phonsavan region in Laos'.

Wikitravel's description is as follows:

'The waterfall is located near Tajok village, 32 km north of Phonsavanh. The water flows over several tiers. A spectacular jungle trail winds its way up the waterfall crossing it several times. Tad Kha is a popular picnic spot for locals, especially during the Lao New Year holidays. To get there turn right at the end of Tajok village; follow the road until you see a building to the right. Walk along the ridge and take the right trail down. Local tour companies offer day tours including a picnic lunch and a hike up the waterfall'.

A final departing pic from James Zwier:

'Outing to Kham district. One of the many waterfalls in a long series at Tad Kha'.

Jarring

2010-12-23T04:41:00.000-08:00

Tad Lang: the lowest and biggest drop

The Lao province of Xieng Khouang (Xieng Khuang) is not synonymously known for it's natural attractiveness. But rather for it's historical significance: most recently as the Vietnam War's location of dirty deeds when US aircraft saturated the area with bombs in a futile attempt to stem the communist Vietnamese from gaining the overhand in Vietnam. Simultaneously aiding their ally, the Hmong people, in their own attempt to avoid Lao from subsiding into communism.

More historically significant are the occurrence of man-size jar-like artifacts, hewn from stone and 2000 year beyond their birth; baffling researchers and tourists alike. Neatly concentrated at a number of sites within Xieng Khouang province, these jars point to sophistical funeral rites.

Lots of jars

It's near one of the more picturesque sites where these jars can be found that one can visit Tad Lang (Tat Lang): a tumble of water, falling over the edge of the plain into the moist monsoonal forest.

Site 3 of the Plain of Jars is found in village of Xiengdi, due south of Phonsavan, the provincial capital. The ride here is a rough ride over unsurfaced roads slowly becoming less wide. Three km's before the jar site, one can head down a clearly indicated track towards the waterfall, which is about 1 km away from the turn off. Just before the waterfalls themselves is a small guardpost where a local villager will hand out entrance tickets in return for 10,000 kip (Dec. 2010 ~ US$ 1,20).

One continues to the top of the falls. The wide stretch of barren rocks stands as witness of the fury to be encountered in the rainy season, however now, a few months after the last rains, there is only a two meter water stream finding it's way down in a series of smaller falls to the base about 60m below the top. The biggest fall is at the bottom about 15m. The top of the waterfall contains a number of pleasant pools, which are probably an attraction to locals, foreign tourists straying here seem very infrequent. On a week day the place is for one own though villagers still stride through the upper area on their way to their fields and/or forest. Lower down, the pools are not nearly as good but much more secluded for those preferring this.

Rocks made naked by high monsoonal waters

On your way south out of Phonsavan stop by the tourist information, there's more (and extensive) information to be had concerning the province as well as a load of junk, otherwise known as unexploded ordinance (UXO). Essential to exploring the province in more depth is the "A Guide to Xieng Khouang" by Creutz and Van Den Bergh, though all of the text is also on Wikitravel.
Other web based info from Virtualtourist, while on travelpod there is this conclusion by Zombywoof:

'... the waterfall was loud and impressive'.

Definitely not a waterfall fanatic.

There are also a couple of photo's by phnomsin on opera, which wraps up another waterfall entry.

Chambok revisited

2010-12-17T00:40:00.000-08:00

Chambok has been visited in the past, see this posting. Not much has changed since, which if paying $3 you would think that some improvement had occurred in 4 years! But not.

Yesterday's visit with friends was a delight. Heavy overnight rain had replenished the surroundings and the water was crashing down. Some new signboards are up encouraging everyone to help in keeping the spot clean, though trash hadn't been collected in quite some time.

In Chambok itself the Romantic Waterfall Cafe (and mini guesthouse) has opened business run by the charming Puoh. Expect not too much, drinks are beer, wine, cokes and coffee. He did put in lot's of effort in his hastily arranged fried rice.

No sunny rainbow

2010-10-20T17:37:00.000-07:00

Umphang district is synonymous with waterfall fame, at least in Thailand. Literally located at the end of one of Southeast Asia's most twisting and winding roads (just over 1200 curve's until the next district of Mae Sot) national tourists flock here, not to experience the torturous road, but to visit Thi Lo Su, claimed to be Thailand's 'largest' waterfall (height 200m, breadth 400m, see blog entry on Waterfalls of Thailand). Wikitravel adds that it's among the worlds six most beautiful waterfalls.

As apparently the final 40 km of road from Umphang village to the waterfalls are closed during the rainy season (visit took place early October 2010) visiting the waterfalls is not a lightly undertaken mission, an offer my son was not willing to give.

Heading into the wild.

So we opted for second best, rafting down Mae Klong river (which is another reason Thai tourist flock to here outside of the rainy season). Though Thi Lo Sur wouldn't be on the cards, a delightful hot spring (see Soaking in Siam) and the undisturbed wilderness would. And there's the sensation of floating on the raft below a waterfall, the waterfall called Thi Lo Jau (Thi Lo Cho or Saifon) Both translate (from Karen and Thai) as rainbow.
Apparently once the sun shines early morning you can see a rainbow. Despite this info and the urgency to get there early, the sun wasn't shining so no neat pictures of the rainbow. But no need to worry internet guarantees that somewhere there is the picture perfect of the waterfall and rainbow in one.

Because of the remoteness of Thi Lo Jau, boat is the only option in getting here and the only option in experiencing the falls as it is located in a canyon like setting: both banks of the river are steep rocks. Boats / rafts leave from just outside of Umphang village and in season combine a visit to Thi Lo Su, while out of season one needs to walk (3-4 hours) and add an overnight stay. In the rainy season though, after a total of 5 hours, you and the raft are brought back the 25+ kms to Umphang.

World of waterfalls has beaten me to posting this on their blog, much better photo's too.

Another similar fall.

There are more waterfalls along the way, some bigger some smaller. This one (see photo's below) on a side river has it's own name, Mor something.

Elsewhere in and around Umphang, besides the two waterfalls above there are the waterfalls of Le Tong Khu, Thi Lo Rae, Sepla (Se Pla or Ze Pala) and even Thi Cha Na Ta.

A lot of Calamus

2010-10-18T00:37:00.000-07:00

Heading south from Mae Sot towards Thailand's wild west capital of Umphang, there are a few opportunities to visit some waterfalls. One of which is the often visited Pha Charoen waterfall located in the national park of the same name.
However as one also has to return via the same road there's another opportunity to visit a waterfall in the same national park without everybody being stressed out about yet again a waterfall.

Pa Wai (or Ba Wai) waterfall is well signposted off the Umphang - Mae Sot highway no. 1090 though the distance from the highway is not the announced 9 km rather double. Access is south of Phop Phra district around km 40.

Apparently the name of the waterfall is derived from the plant of the same name (Calamus Caesius, rattan, see also below).

There aren't many facilities other than a toilet and a shelter, though there are a couple of makeshift bridges.

In reality the stream falls over a great many steps amounting to a fall of around 40m. As the steps are small and wide there are many trees in-between giving the area something special, though there is no big pond at the bottom of the falls, there are a number of steps to splash around in.

On the other side there is a deep sink hole (see photo above) where a part of the stream falls in, only to reemerge at the foot of the cliff. there is also a cave for those visitors fortunate enough to have a torch on them all the time. And a large tree at the bottom of the cliff.

The official Thai Department of National Parks website there is this about the waterfall:

'Bawai [Pa Wai] waterfall is a 100-step limestone waterfall, originating from Huai Wai with the flowing water throughout the year. The Waterfall is situated in virgin forest consisting of medium-sized/large plants. The Waterfall is called “Bawai Waterfall” because there are a lot of Calamus Caesius within the area'.

From wikitravel:

'To admire this waterfall, one must walk from its ground floor to the upper level. Then, go further for around 30 m, visitors will see a channel of about 10 m wide where flowing water falls and disappears under the mountain base. The waterfall originates from Pa Wai Creek where water flows all year round and many rattan plants grow. It is therefore named ‘Pa Wai’, which means a rattan forest'.

Name-giving

2010-10-14T20:38:00.000-07:00

Naming an extensive national park (855 km2) according to just one of the included waterfalls reaps up dreams of a magnificent and all-encompassing waterfall.

So when heading to Pha Charoen (Pa Charoen) waterfall we were expecting just that. The waterfall can hardly be missed and entails no extra effort if you heading on highway 1090 between Mae Sot and Umphang, Tak province, Thailand.

Located a km from the turnoff (km 37) the biggest surprise is that one can enter this national park free, though one does need to sign something.
The parking area looks well-equipped to contain those many visitors eager to see the name-giving waterfall of this national park. The foot of the waterfall has been transformed into a park, complete with fitness track. And the bottom of the fall is certainly picture perfect but would I name a national park after this waterfall?
No, not really. Though very nice, it's not so extraordinary. In all there are 97 steps as the stream tumbles down 50 m (source) apparently, didn't count them myself.

We continue upwards along the side of the fall looking for a more discreet dipping place. Along the way there are some enticing pools but we seem to have adopted some youth whose day needs spicing up in the form of tagging along with foreigners. Beyond the lip of the fall, the stream still continues to drop, less in height but with bigger pools. But our bodyguard doesn't loose sight of us, so we return an illusion lighter. Other time other place.

Beyond the lip

Pha Charoen National Park contains more waterfalls such as Pa Wai, Saifa, Huai Tapu-kor, Nang Chron and Taralak (or Thararak).

World of waterfalls includes this waterfall as well with roughly the same sort of blog entry as above but with more photo's and a video, and complaints about visitors walking in the picture. It's funny but from many photo's on the web, it seems that this waterfall is visited more for ecstatic reasons, nowhere do we see people splashing around.

View downwards

Couple of waterfalls

2010-10-13T01:58:00.000-07:00

Lan Sang waterfall.

Located nearer Tak town than Taksin Maharat National Park (see also entry on Pang Ah Noi waterfall) is the national park of Lan Sang (sometimes written as Lansang). Just 17 kms along a gradually climbing towards the foot of the mountains road in the direction of Mae Sot (Highway 105).

As always there's a significant entry fee (~$US 7), but with the added benefit that the aforementioned Taksin N.P. is included in the same price if visited the same day.

Once past paying the road continues onwards along the Lan Sang stream for another km until one reaches a carpark. By then one could have already visited the Lan Lieng waterfall.
At the carpark there is also an information kiosk and after some search a toilet, oddly that they built two toilet structures next to each other.

A short amble gets you to Lan Sang waterfall itself. The waterfall is a small series of 5-10m drops between a rocky gully. Some good pools for splashing but as this is easily accessible it might be a little too public for my (and wife's) exhibitionist behavior. Or so it maybe construed. Careful.

Instead we notice the nearby signboard which mentions a number of waterfalls along the same riverulet but more upstream. All seem within an hours walk (the furthest, Pa Tay (Pha Te) is only a little more than 2 km away) and my wife and I decide to tackle the track to the next fall. The track alongside the stream is narrow and beginning to be overgrown. About 30 minutes up is Pa Pueng, the destination. This fall is much more open and is actually the stream going along a 20m slope rather than a real fall. Nonetheless a great place to hang out naked.

Pa Pueng waterfall during rainy season (October 2010).

On our way back we discover a much more worn track which though longer takes just the same amount of time. Once back we discovered we were just a short distance from the next waterfall Pa Noi.

More photo's of Lan Sang here and here.

This website provides a good insight:

'Legend has it that while leading an attack on Chiang Mai, King Krung Thon Buri became separated from his troops. In the dark forests, his soldiers were forced to wait for daylight to search for their beloved King. ' That night, a strange light appeared in the sky and the soldiers heard the King's horse whinny in the distance. They followed the horse's cries until dawn, when they came across their King mounted on his trusty steed. This site was aptly named "Lan Sang", the "Dawning Ground"'.

Krabak

2010-10-10T23:59:00.000-07:00

Taksin Maharat National park is not commonly known for it's waterfalls. There's the tree which it's claimed to be Thailand's largest (of it's sort; 16m in diameter, 50m high and 700 years old) and somewhere in the park is also a natural rock bridge.

Visiting the tree known as Krabak tree (Anisoptera Spp., an endangered tree species) though has the added value of also visiting the Pang Ah Noi waterfall, which is situated a km downstream.
The fall is rather non-descript though, simply some of water crashing 20m along a rock face. That said there are a few nice pools (along the stream not necessarily under the fall), but the jungle here is pretty intense. On our visit (October 2010) leeches (literally) were out in full force and though they're not the kind of creatures to permanently damage you, the remainder of the day was very bloody. In all the trek to the tree and waterfall is a nice 1,5 km triangular trek, not too complicated or strenuous, but rewarding and devoid of people.

Pang Ah Noi, with the emphasis on 'noi' (Thai for small)

Taksin Maharat National Park is located in Tak province, lower northern Thailand and the park was initially named after the tree until someone saw the light. There's this description:

'Taksin Maharat is a rugged mountainous park, often swathed in cooling mists. Thanon Thongchai mountain is a major watershed area. Evergreen forest and pine forest cover the upper hills, with deciduous and dipterocarp forest in the lower elevations. Wildlife includes serow, sambar deer, barking deer, golden cat, wild pig, and bear. Visitors can enjoy cool fresh air all year round. The nights can be chilly during the winter in the months of November till February'.

The park (and tree and (possible other?) waterfalls) are easily accessed from the Tak - Mae Sot highway 105, the national park entrance being 26 km up (elevation 1000m) the road from Tak.
Possible to combine with Lan Sang National Park which is nearer Tak town. The entrance fee to both is the standard fee for entrance with the possibility of getting 2 (National parks) for the price of 1!

The Krabak tree after which the national park was initially named.

Elsewhere on the internet is another visit blogged here (more on the natural bridge) and here (for birders).

Added Value?

2010-09-01T19:55:00.002-07:00

Coming from a 2 km walk through the surrounding hills (altitude around 1000m) from Candi Sukuh temple one enters this waterfall through the lower riverside entrance. It being a Friday just after prayer time, the car park is very much deserted and the ticket officer has to scramble to present himself at the other side of the ticket booth.

Tickets are on a premium. Though the practice is commonplace in some Southeast Asia countries, this is one of the few places I've encountered in Indonesia to ask the poor foreign tourists to pay for overtime: 19,000 INRs. Still it’s not much (~2 $US) but compared to other cheaper waterfalls there’s not much in return. An area set aside for the waterfall (20 ha). A load of poorly maintained and unusable facilities (why a fishpond, if there’s not even water in it?), a track of upturned stones (which seems to dissuade everyone from continuing onwards to the waterfall), a complete lack of refuse collection understanding and a troupe of loitering monkeys which have taken up residence of the only bridge.

Anyway Air Terjun Grojogan Sewu (which translates as 1000 waterfalls) is seen to be famous. The LP Indonesia terms it as ‘probably the most famous waterfall in Java’. Other than that the water drops about 80m onto a bed of rocks (source, though it may be an overstatement), there doesn’t seem to be any other reason why it might be famous. Visitor numbers are down, but the fact that there are 2 parking areas might be the reason why it’s famous.

Between the car park and the falls themselves there is the aforementioned footpath, which alternatively to stumbling along can be taken by horse, some even cripple. Nearer the bridge which is the termination point of the trail are a number of stalls whose sole intention is to add to the refuse blending in with the scenery. There are a number of picnic spots as well as the odd pool in which to paddle.

Getting here other than described above is via Tawangmangu, 2 km away, a town which maintains good transport connections with Solo city.

Not so far away is the waterfall of Jumog, a better place to picknick. And Pringgodani.

Alt programme

2010-08-23T00:12:00.000-07:00

While heading out for the Candi Sukuh temple complex in Central Java (see photo above), my eye caught hold of a signpost announcing Jumog waterfall. After a quick discussion with that day’s guide and we were pulling up into the small car-park precariously located on the edge of the ravine.

It being early morning, life still had to kick in, but at least the ticket officer was open. We paid the fee (3,000 INR apparently community run), made a U-turn and walked down the steep stairway leading into the ravine until we reached the valley floor.

Here there was a kiddies water park normally river fed, but now (still?) empty. Across the river the well-cemented paths continued. Everything was still in the process of getting cleaned, though it was very apparent that almost all cleaning work had taken place, the area being nearly spotless. Past some stalls still in the process of opening up, one comes to the cliff face where the approximately 30m high waterfall thunders down. Swimming possibilities are available under the waterfall as well as further downstream. even a kiddies pool is available.
Air Terjun Jumog made a great impression, one of the better managed sites in Southeast Asia.

As said we continued on to the top of the ridge to the Candi Sukuh temple (entrance fee 10,000 INRs, nearly a $US) and then walked two hours along fields and through cloves plantations to another waterfall, named Grojogan Sewu.

All are best accessed through Tawangmangu, a town reknown for it’s cool climate as it sits between the Lawu and Kukusan mountains. Tawangmangu sits on the road from Solo to Magetan and can be best accessed from Solo.

Visiting the 15th century Candi Sukuh temple is certainly worthwhile; it’s not so big, nor overrun (as say Bororbodur). A Hindu-Buddist temple, it seems to include various animism elements. Further away (nearly 10 km from Candi Sukuh) is the Candi Celo temple from the same era.

Over-looked?

2010-08-12T22:38:00.004-07:00

Sometimes there are waterfalls right in the middle of a heavily touristed area where nobody seems to come. Batu district, already characterized as 'Small Switzerland' by the Dutch, sees many national tourists, none seemingly missing out the chance to visit Selecta's swimming pool.

But only a km or 2 upstream from this Dutch era swimming pool is the waterfall of Air Terjun Coban Talun. Getting here involves continuing up the mountain for about 2 km (following the main road) and then taking a well-signposted left for another 1,5 km. There is a small ticket office which doesn’t seem to be at all attached to the falls themselves, but it's simply the end of the road. Entrance fee is something like 3,100 INR (~3,50$US).

View along the way, after crossing the river. Far away one can see the town of Batu.

The track starts again off to your left and you gradually descend to the river level, above the falls. Here the track goes through the river and continues on the opposite bank. For another 750m the track hugs the mountain side as the valley drops away. Then a steep descent and after a total walk of 30 minutes one is at the foot of the 50m+ high falls.

Underneath (and probably above) the quite clean surrounded waterfall are some nice pools to cool off in. Do note that the climate here is already a lot cooler ... The lack of refuse may well indicate that there was lack of visitors ...., all the better for others to enjoy!

Nearby are other attractions such as a cave used during the Japanese occupation. This according to eastjava.com.

In the Batu region other significant natural attractions are Cangar hot springs (about 8 km up road) as well as further away the hot springs in Songgoriti and Cubanrondo waterfall. Coban Rais is another local waterfall.

Poor widow

2010-08-10T00:10:00.000-07:00

Prior experience with Indonesia’s waterfalls gives a mixed picture. Some are well-known and despite the natural beauty they are often trashed beyond recognition. Others, less well-known, are pristine and exude the expected beauty.

Air Terjun Cubanrondo (or Cuban Rondo / Coban Rondo) lies on the well-trodden route surrounding Batu town, located just over 30 km west of Malang. Located above Malang and squished between 2 volcanoes, the landscape and cooler climate lead to a great many tourists coming here, though mostly Indonesian nationals. As said very few foreigners make it here, most stick to the big attractions on Java: Bromo volcano and Borobodur.

That does not imply the rest of the island is not interesting. Quite the opposite. And having an extremely dense population rate, combined with increasing prosperity discovering Java is quite easy.

However that easiness might not apply here. Eventually we made it to this waterfall on the backs of motorcycles for a hefty sum. Best accessed from the main Malang to Kediri highway, Cuban Rondo is found by taking the first turn left once over the pass beyond Batu.

After 1 km on this road, one is required to pay the entrance fee of 10,000 INR (~ 1,10$US) and one continues for another 5 km through park like surroundings. Camping grounds, possibilities to hike and cycle are all possible. The car park is definitely geared to swarms of visitors though even on a Saturday there are only 20 plus vehicles.

From the car park it’s a short stroll along the stream to the waterfall proper, which drops about 60m (source), though a wikitravel entry cuts that height by 50%. No pool underneath, though the stream has a couple. Water is very cold though. Alas, due to the influx of tourists the direct surroundings from the car park to waterfall are in desperate need of a clean up.

From internet are many blog entries, some though come with some additional info.

‘In the past, there was a beautiful princess who were married to an ordinary man. Their marriage was not blessed by the princess' parents and they run away. On the way of their trip, they met a man who also fell in love to this princess. The princess' husband and that man fought for days and nights. The princess was hidden by her husband behind a waterfall and he asked her to stay there and wait for him. However, her husband and the man were both killed on their battle. The princess did not know. She stayed and sat on a rock behind the waterfall. She waited for her husband faithfully until she died. That is why the locals named the waterfall as 'Cuban Rondo'. Cuban (in Javanese) means waterfall and Rondo (in Javanese) means Widow. So this waterfall is not recommended for couple who are not married yet. There is a belief that you will break up with your boyfriend or girlfriend after the visit’.

That explains the naming of the falls. Worthwhile destinations in the area are Songgoriti hot springs and a outlook point from which one can view Batu valley and take a tandem dive down.

Video's from internet. Cobanrundo from Eastjava.com.

Wondering in the Kingdom

2010-04-15T00:27:00.000-07:00

Flowers in the hair, waterfall in the background, another pic for the album.

Cambodia likes to see itself as a nation of natural beauty as exemplified by it’s waterfalls. And there is ample evidence of beautiful waterfalls in outstanding areas. However what they often neglect to inform visitors of, is the fact that the management of these waterfall areas and other areas of outstanding natural beauty contradicts the very reason why visitors may come. Or am I missing something?

K’bal Chhay (Kbal Chhay), Kompong Som province (yes you may refer to it as Sihanoukville) ranks high on Cambodia’s must see waterfalls. With the possible Bou Sra waterfalls in Mondulkiri having the edge, these falls are seen as something not to miss. Even though they aren’t the highest nor have any other qualities which would seek to attract visitors. But being close to the coastal resort of Sihanoukville seems to be the premier reason to visit here. And the reason why I have avoided visiting them.

Until this morning. Located 8 km up a dirt road from a turn off on the main road out of Sihanoukville, access is good. Entrance fees are $1 per vehicle (up 100% with 3 years ago). Along the way one passes the municipal water reservoir as well as some clear cut forest just above the reservoir. Only in Cambodia is one allowed to denude the hills surrounding it’s number 1 drinking water source. Another wonder.

There is a wikipedia page on Kbal Chhay. It mentions that the fact of the upper part of the stream being the fresh water source of Sihanoukville. That the road was constructed by a company which somehow is not responsible for the fee collection anymore, the government has moved back. None of this though I believe is transparent.

Car park galore.

At the end of the road is a gigantic car park, which I imagine can spare enough space for upwards of 1,000 cars. Luckily today there are only a dozen. Along the edges are a number of stalls, selling drinks, foods and tourist nick nacks.
Access to mid way the falls is from a small corner of the car park, but most visitors opt to cross the river and seek out a nice shaded hut on the opposite bank above the falls. There are quite a few of these stalls, fanning out above the falls. Oddly though there seems no access to below the 15-25m high falls, where one can easily see a nice pool to swim in.

Overall it all seems pretty dangerous, I for one would not be surprised at children being swept off the waterfalls or just falling. On the other side is another smaller stream which joins the falls but with it’s own set of beautiful falls.

Not the main falls.

Again it certainly is a beautiful place, but the obscenity of all the stalls above the falls takes a major part of the enjoyment away. At least for ourselves. Naturally on holidays business will be roaring so no doubt I am one of the few who resent this development. Beyond the stalls huge piles over rubbish exist and closer to the falls much rubbish has been allowed to accumulate, but that seems to concern no one. It’s a pity how a beautiful area can be destroyed in humanities never ending search to make a quick buck.

The thing to do I believe, is to see if one can extend the visit by finding a path below to the lower stream and seek out a waterhole there.

We opted to follow the brook which enters the falls site. After some 10 minutes of scrambling through the forest we come to a very small waterfall, jungle enclosed and up to half a meter deep. No crowds. No noise. No rubbish. No need for clothes. Just pure nature.

Nearby is Iball, another delitefully peaceful area where one can zorb from a slope (apparently if you’re drunk naked zorbing is allowed …), swim or simply relax. A good idea to combine the two?

Halfway down the falls. The water drops here another 15m.

Elsewhere Andy B has as always a good blog entry. He attributes Kbal Chhay's popularity to it featuring in a 2000 local movie. More photo's too and from the rainy season, a fact which also the province guide mentions as well as more of the development history.

End of paradise

2010-04-12T05:56:00.000-07:00

The waterfalls and rapids of Thmor Roong, Koh Kong province, Cambodia were revisited for a third time this month. Located at nearly the half way point between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh the area was a great place for a complete getaway. Three years ago there was just 1 lady with an eski and possibly 2 or 3 shelter huts depending on what exactly you would describe as those.

Since though things have taken off: roughly ten shops now supply about 100 huts. These huts are lined two rows thick and seem solely intent in damaging the very environment that is the main attraction. Despite it not being Khmer New Year, rubbish was already easily to be found.

Worst of all a development 100m upstream seems to be excluding use for those wishing to get away from it all. A huge two meter high wall has been erected and signs through the riverbed seem to be there to deter visitors from straying upstream.
Beyond the wall, a guard hut and building have been built and the once verdant jungle undergrowth was still smoldering after some slash and burn. This stood in stark contrast to the opposing river side where the forest was still prime and once away from the main area birds were singing. Though I can’t say for sure that this side will not see the same fate.

Three years ago a visit was free to get away from the crowds, now a dollar the person to join the crowd! Thanks again folks for ruining what was once a beautiful place to visit. Long may you party (one set of visitors had a speaker box along, 1.5 m tall).

Another recent blog entry on Thmar Roung. There's apparently now a signboard with a JICA logo on it ....

Hit or miss? The latter

2010-01-09T19:45:00.001-08:00

Kampot province is Cambodia is largly well-known because of the natural setting, at the foot of a high mountain range (Bokor), the sea and a fertile plain. The town of Kampot lies on a broad river which springs from the Bokor mountains. Visits to town seem to mean that a visit to the nearby Tek Chou rapids is called for, them being just 5 kms upstream from town.

Until now (January 2010) I've been able to avoid this tourist trap, simply because it's that. But all things must come to an end and thus last month I visited Teuk Chou (or Tek Chhou). There's a blanket charge for visitors, which seems steep for what one gets. One gets nothing. Along a 100 m stretch of the river, about 10,000 stalls are vying for the best place and get visitors to stay and spend some cash. Between the river and the stalls is a dirty area which seems to make this a natural area to be enjoyed redundant. And it seems that with the dam just upstream under construction the river and the rapids themselves have gone, leaving behind a couple of pools of tepid and dirty water. Avoid at all cost.

More photo's from internet:

Photo's from times with more water. Sources above and below.

Do note that this is only my opinion. Under the caption

'Teuk Chou's brook nevelrfails to win local and foreign fans'

comes the following first hand experience:

'It was not difficult to find 'Teuk Chou'- a local out-of-sort resort by a rocky brook only a few minutes drive from town. On arrival, we were greeted by many stalls by the road selling all sorts of foodstuff and fruits.
As we got out of our vehicle, we were immediately approached by food vendors rushing and pleading to take our order for lunch. These vendors can be quite persistent but since we needed lunch anyway, we permitted this big lady to lead us to a place under a tree by the stream. This was a makeshift platform made from some planks and neatly covered by a grass mat. Under the shade of trees by the stream, it was really quite cozy and comfortable.
We ordered lunch and, believe it or not, they actually served a full meal with fish, vegetables, chicken, soup and rice. The place was quite crowded with holiday-makers picnicking and having fun in the water.
The water in this rocky stream was crystal clear and cooling as well but unfortunately it appeared as though it was fast drying up and there was not much left to cater to the crowd, all rushing for what's left of deeper areas. For us, it was a rather pleasant place to have lunch'.

Teuk Chou's time is up apparently, recent reports [March 2011] on the Khmer 440 forum refer is as a 'fetid creek'. Certainly not worth a visit.

Elsewhere in Kampot province reference is made to Anlong Thom waterfall. Anyone been there?

Cyber?

2010-01-08T23:30:00.001-08:00

Odd it may seem but Thailands biggest wildlife reserve, the Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Reserve is bound to contain innumerable waterfalls, though only 1 is really open to visitors. Sai Boe (also seen as Cyber) waterfall is accessible from the (south)east. Coming from Uthai Thani's Ban Rai one needs to continue northwards towards Lan Sak on highway 3282. After 30 km a well sign posted side road heads west to Sai Boe. The road soon deteriorates as tarmac seems to be in short supply and the road becomes a rough dirt track before all of sudden reverting to a wide tarmac road 2 kms before the park entrance.

Entrance fees are stiff (200 THB). This being January 1, most locals are converging here.

From the car park it's about a km walk, the path swinging from left to right to the left shore. The track ends at the falls and going beyond the falls is actively discouraged, especially today as there are two wardens whose other job is to keep people from picnicking or trashing the place. The trash though must be pointed out is sold by family members of the same wardens nearby the parking. Beneath the slanted 10 m high waterfalls is a nice and deliciously deep water pool, a nice place to cool off even with the crowds as most can't swim so you still have the pool to yourself.

From internet I learn that discouraging tourists from climbing the falls is due to the fact that someone died not too long ago. It's another interesting account of a visit to this waterfall.

Lush

2010-01-08T21:13:00.000-08:00

Namtok Pha Rom Yen is for once a waterfall that fails to fall under some kind of protective state run Thai agency. Probably that accounts for it being quite difficult to find. It all seems pretty straight forward, leave Ban Rai town (Uthai Thani province, Thailand) direct west along highway 3011. Continue for roughly 20 km until you have just reached the top of a mountain plateau. Take the first road right about 1 km before the police post. You now go down steeply, pity of all the height just achieved. Stop in the first hair pin bend. There are small spirit houses and a dress in plastic. From the bend of the corner look back over the valley and you will see the water fanning out over the cliff.

The corner in the bend is where to park. Two spirit houses and a dress.
From here one can see the waterfall drop from the opposing cliff side.

One can get to the foot of this fall with a frenetic scramble. From the parking there is a path going down to the river. It then goes through the stream upwards. Where there are two distinct streams joining take the left fork and with the aid of a rope haul yourself up to the end of the first level (derscriptors mention 4 levels). Not really a waterfall to plunge in, though the mist from the impressive 100 m height envelops the surroundings making this very lush. There's also a great view from here.

Lush undergrowth

Another thing striking is that the water contains a lot of lime which results in sediments building up from the bottom of the fall upwards.

A very beautiful waterfall and different. A pity though that there seems to be even a scrap of management. Prior visitors are leaving behind quite a bit of evidence. This contrasts with this description:

'The entire environment surrounding the waterfalls is serene and mostly unspoiled by any kind of urban civilization, thereby providing visitors a soothing atmosphere to relax and have fun'.

More photo's from the Thai government site.

Now go through this cave ...

2010-01-08T04:35:00.000-08:00

Kanchanaburi province, Thailand is along the well trodden tourist path which takes in the River Kwai railway as well as jungle surroundings. It's home to some of Thailand's more famous waterfalls such as Erawan and Sai Yok.

Off this west-east tourist path is located the national park of Chaloem Rattanakosin. Getting here means taking highway 3086 60 km north of Kanchanaburi town to Nong Prue and then going west for about 20 km along the 3480 which brings you to the national park entrance.

Though off the tourist path, locals are out in numbers in late December 2009. Just beyond the entrance is a large car park with restaurants, bungalows and camping facilities. On this day there is even a first aid tent with its complete (limited) stock of medicines on show.

Most tourists are all heading for the same waterfall, Tri Trong. To get here one needs to pass 300 m through a cave (Tham Lod Noi) as the stream on which the waterfall lies does the same. Lights are on during day. From the cave it's another 1 km to the waterfalls.

Tri Trong has three levels and the picture above is of the first level. The path here is beautiful, both the cave as well as the path following a stream along a deep valley which provides for radiant growth. Beyond the falls the path steepens and ends in a even larger cave (Tham Lod Yai).

Elsewhere in the national park are the waterfalls of Tran Ngern / Tran Thong and Slider.

Cascade of Falls

2010-01-08T01:47:00.000-08:00

Cambodia is not really well known for it's waterfalls and when it does, these seem to be all located east wards in the mountainous area near the Vietnamese border.

However those familiar with the Bokor mountains will have to admit that a mountain range located close to the coast is bound to have a waterfall or two. Which is the case though they are mostly unknown. The Kampot Survival Guide mentions a number of unnamed waterfalls which flow mostly during the monsoon which usually lasts a little longer here. Known to locals but with little details for tourists.

Prek Thnaut is one of these lesser known waterfalls or better said a cascade of smaller falls located not far from the road to Sihanoukville, roughly 25 km from Kampot. From the road one needs to pay attention to a school, on the north side of the road. Follow the dirt road to and around this school and one comes to Prek Thnaut visitor center, though as mostly visitors are expected during the monsoon and in the weekend, the center will mostly be deserted. Then again Save Cambodia's Wildlife, a nationally operating NGO is trying to promote community based ecotourism here so the center may not always be deserted. More info from Cambodia's Community Based Ecotourism Network.

Park the car here and continue on foot for another 200 m and you'll see various tracks diverging from the main track to different pools / falls. The falls are mostly of 1 m height with small tubs beneath each.

Our visit here was in late December 2009. Water was still flowing and the pools were still refreshing though one can imagine that in April / May nothing would be flowing ... Then again come in September and you'will be swept away (literally?).

Tip: Take a bike from Kampot, the road is less traveled. Stay closer at the Nataya.

Update (August 2010): the Cambodian NGO, Save Cambodia's Wildlife, is stopping assistance here due to lack of donor funding. They have however published a brochure which is distributed throughout Kampot.

Pha Toei waterfall and a rose garden

2010-01-04T01:58:00.000-08:00

The west of Ratchaburi province, Thailand, is gifted with many waterfalls, some more well known than others.
The past December (2009) I made a visit to Usawadi Rose Garden. This private resort seems a bit peculiar. It contains a larger restaurant with a number of bungalows nearby, but all apparently do not form one resort so it seems. Beyond the restaurant lie a number of obstacles of an obstacle course. The Rose Garden itself is beyond these and seems to be dying out.

Beyond this Rose Garden much effort has been made to make a path along a small stream which gradually gets steeper and steeper. However even though the path and canalization of the stream are quite obtrusive, at the top a large dam holds a nearly 2 m deep pool with cold water and on the opposite side water rains down from an about 20 m higher cliff (see photo above). Again with no one in sight another great skinny dip sight, but even if not skinny, it still is a rewarding place to dust off the accumulated sweat.

The waterfall goes under the name of Pha Toei. Getting here is not too complicated. From Suan Phueng continue along road 3087 until one comes to a turn off 20 km from Suan Phueng. Continue onwards for another km then take the sharp turn right and after another 1 km the Usuwadi Rose Garden is on your right.

The lower levels of the falls have been artificially landscaped, not much charm.

Thailand's Best?

2009-12-09T20:15:00.001-08:00

Ti Lo Su, Umphang, Tak province. By spannar00oi

The Thai language Places and Prices coffee table magazine published an issue 2 years back with top Thailand destinations. These were their choice of best waterfalls, without ranking:

Klong Thom Ron waterfall (being a waterfall as well), Krabi, Southern Thailand
Huai Khamin waterfall, Kanchanaburi, Central Thailand
Thi Lo Su, Tak, Northern Thailand
Thi Lo Re, Tak, Northern Thailand
Khlong Lan, Kampaeng Phet, Central Thailand
Tat Mok, Phetchabun, Central Thailand
Saeng Chan, Ubon Ratchathani, North-Eastern Thailand

Saeng Chan waterfall makes the list because it goes through a hole in the rock. Photo source.

Mae Surin, Mae Hong Son, Northern Thailand
Heo Narok, Nakhon Nayak, Central Thailand
Phraiwan, Phattalung, Southern Thailand
Krung Ching, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Southern Thailand
Ton Nga Chang, Songkhla, Southern Thailand
Mae Ya, Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand

There are probably many more that could of made the list. It's not mine. They may have tried to include all regions and be politically correct ....

Back on Track

2009-12-08T06:06:00.000-08:00

Then finally on my day touring Phang Nga, I'm able to visit a real waterfall. A 7 km partially dirt track (reached from between kilometer markers 28-29 on highway no. 4) takes to me to the Khao Lampee-Thai Muang National Park Ton Phrai entrance. The last 200 meter involve a ridiculous steep rutted trail but the car at hand is OK. About 10 ladies and gents are hanging around a chess board playing checkers, but all look official and it's here I need to pay the park entrance of 100 Baht. From the parking area it's a walk of they say 650 meters, roughly 20 minutes up a well worn trail next to the fast flowing river.
It's their nature walk. The nature walk mainly focuses on some trees which are identified and foreseen with a description of their significance. It’s nice walk through mostly undisturbed forest, though in some locations the forest is only 50 meter wide, large stands of rubber seen beyond the jungle fringe.

Beautiful waterholes

Along the way are a number of not so secluded waterholes but just under the falls themselves is another great pool. The sandy bottom of this pool is relatively shallow as the water falls in a slant, not straight from about 20-25 meter height. (though others say 50 meters) The surroundings are besides natural very clean. I can't resist the urge and knowing that there was no one directly behind me strip and dive in and under.

The waterfall goes by the name Ton Phrai though I've also seen Tone Prai and Ton Phri. Khaolak.net describes it as follow:

'Nam Tok Ton Phrai - a larger size fall with cascading water again throughout the year. At km 29 marker on route 4, follow a gravel road for 7km; therafter a further 1 km on foot is required - this is a good hike in the dry season.
Flora includes Dipterocarpus sp., Anisoptera costata, Syzygium sp, Hopea odorata, Mimusops elengi, several species of palm and bamboo. Common barking deer, langurs, wild pig, red jungle fowl, hill myna, and several reptiles, such as the reticulated python, and amphibians are examples of the fauna'.

Lots more photo's plus German blog entries.

No compelling reason

2009-12-06T19:29:00.000-08:00

Hin Lat (or alternatively Hin Laad) waterfall is once more not a real waterfall but more a series of rapids in an otherwise clear and swift flowing river. Located 8 kilometers upstream from Kapong, Phang Nga province, south Thailand, the road there is quite straight forward. However when expecting a waterfall and finding none, it's a bit unclear. There are a number of picnic tables where the road ends and locals tell me this is really the place where the waterfall is.

The river is deep in some area's so a great place to swim and relax. But other than that there's no compelling reason to come.

Other than the odd mention here and there, it seems nobody on the www has managed to get here.

Trashed

2009-11-30T17:24:00.000-08:00

Just a couple of kilometers from the main coastal road between Phuket and Khao Lak (Phang Nga province, southern Thailand) is the waterfall of Khamin. Not located within any protected area little is known of this waterfall, at least on the net. The name is synonymous with the mountain behind it, the 600+ meter high Khao Khamin.

The fall itself is roughly 15 meters high, not a direct fall but on a slight slant. Beneath is a nice pool, albeit somewhat small. Some enhancement has been tried by placing picnic tables. By the sight of all the refuse lying around it is pretty evident that it sees heavy use only not when I was there.

Getting there is pretty straight forward. The falls are located between kilometer markers 36 and 37, two kilometers before the Thung Maphrao by-pass. The road up the hill is roughly 2 kilometer with a small parking spot.

A closer inspection reveals loads of trash ...

Listing

2009-11-23T18:44:00.000-08:00

Making lists seems to be a great way of making a total non-relevant comparison. Considering there are more than 60 entries already posted on this site, one mite be tempted to ask, which was the best? And I mite not be able to answer... But I'll try.

During the past week I have actually been trying to remember other places in Southeast Asia where I have enjoyed waterfalls and/or swimming holes. Most though are so far back, that I have no pictures to post and no real memories of them either. They were Tasik Chini in Malyasia (visited in 1990), Khao Sok (1990) as well as a 2004 journey in Khao Yai NP (Hew Narok waterfall) Thailand. That said none though are in the top 10.

Hew Narok

What I tend to like is places less visited / less frequented, with a walk (hate 'drive in' waterfalls), abundant nature and different.

As said the best swimming hole I have known was at Hin Huep, Lao, though essentially nothing exceptional it formed a good part of my life.

In the list I'll concentrate on waterfalls:

1. Tad Xay, Bolikhmxay, Lao. A huge pool, remote, surrounded by nature.
2. Blahmantung, Bali, Indonesia. An energetic walk in, high drop, great scenery.
3. Mae Sapok, Chiang Mai, Thailand. Remote but accessible, low visited, diverse fall area.
4. Huai Phai, Loei, Thailand. Another walk in which means less visitors. Great to mess around in.
5. Lu Du, Satun, Thailand. Forgot, so maybe over romanticized ...
6. Kuang Si. Beautiful.
7. Mo Paeng, Mae Hong Son, Thailand. Interesting surroundings.
8. Huai Hin Phon, Chiang Rai, Thailand. Unknown, quiet.
9. Tad Xe, Luang Prabang, Lao. Accessible, beautiful, vibe.
10. Khlong Nam, Kampaeng Phet, Thailand. Eery beauty.

The most popular waterfalls of Southeast Asia would be something different. In that top 10 would be Erawan, Sarika, Saiyok from Thailand, Kuang Si, Lao, Khone waterfalls on the Mekong, Lao/Cambodia, Gitgit, Bali, Indonesia, Sipiso-piso, Sumatra and many more. Anyone have different suggestions?

Extending the definition?

2009-11-19T20:18:00.000-08:00

Seeing how this web site is increasingly becoming a personal listing of great places to swim and have fun in Southeast Asia with at least some water losing some height. All the while enjoying the naturalness of both the water and the surroundings, I could now embark on putting swimming holes on the list. These are not waterfalls persé, though some occur where there are rapids. But where will it end?

A contentious point that I could do is to include the Siloso Beach Resort, Singapore where I stayed a couple of nights during the opening of the resort in August 2007. The resort has an 18 meter man-made waterfall in their pool, but should it be included? I think not, it's man made and I suppose (hopefully) that the water has been chlorinated and the likes, i.e. there's nothing natural to it anymore.

Back to swimming holes then. Should I? A case in point is the recent inclusion of the posting on Nam Lik, Lao, which I rate as my most enjoyed swim hole experience in Southeast Asia. The reasons though are personal. As the Southeast Asian waterfalls experience for me is not a technical experience (see worldwaterfalldatabase: What is considered a waterfall?), it's about enjoyment which, yes, can be personal. However some waterfalls have the wow factor (great to see, but little to enjoy), others awesome (jumping from rocks, skinny dipping and the likes). But possibly we getting on a sliding scale.

Is a simple slow flowing but deep river not a swim hole? Good question, it has it's merits. Maybe I should just rename the blog, Enjoying the Natural Waters of Southeast Asia? But then what is natural water? Non-contaminated, free from pollution? And would beaches not be included? Probably not, that might be a great theme for a new blog though ..

Tatai, Koh Kong, Cambodia. This is a great waterhole just north of the rapids.
Can be reached from the Rainbow Lodge. The owner recommends:

'Skinny dipping by moonlight anyone?'

Let's rate, this way readers can see what I look for in waterfalls and the like.
Natural awesomeness: 2. Natural surroundings: 5. Skinny dipping: 4. Overall experience: 4.

Bohorok River, Bukit Lawang, Sumatra Utara, Indonesia.

Bukit Lawang is a small village, the first village after the Bohorok river has left the Gunung Leuser National Park. Visits to here are popular with locals in the weekend to enjoy the river and nature, whereas tourists stay here as it is the location of an Orang Utan rehabilitation center.
Many guesthouses are located along the river and sleeping is a true delite.
Tubing is also possible, but just jumping around and swimming is as much fun.
Natural awesomeness: 4. Natural surroundings: 4. Skinny dipping: 0. Overall experience: 3.

Yak Lom, Ratanakiri, Cambodia. See blog post earlier.
Natural awesomeness: 4. Natural surroundings: 4. Skinny dipping: 2 (seclusion is on offer, outside of weekends, early in the day or during sun-down). Overall experience: 4.

Swimming in the Tonle San, between Taveng and Voensai, Ratanakiri, Cambodia.
Natural awesomeness: 2. Natural surroundings: 4. Skinny dipping: 0 Overall experience: 2.

Danau Toba, Sumatra Utara, Indonesia. From Tuk Tuk village.

Natural awesomeness: 4. Natural surroundings: 3. Skinny dipping: 1 (after dark).

Overall experience: 3.

Forgot, not

2009-11-19T18:30:00.000-08:00

In my haste to put as much as possible of the waterfalls I have visited in Southeast Asia, a couple have fallen off the track so it seems. One which seems very unique is the waterfall of Angseri, Bali, Indonesia. Where else can you shower under a 7-8 m high waterfall after which you can take a hot soak at an adjacent hot spring? Well, maybe not so unique, but something special.

I have an extensive posting on the hot spring on my Soaking in Southeast Asia blog which seems to sum up most.

Another waterfall is a large waterfall that flows in the Telega Waja river, Bali, Indonesia. As I was rafting at the moment no photo's. Let's download someone else's:

It's quite high and too powerful to be underneath. Name:?

Why? For the adventure of bathing

2009-11-16T21:59:00.000-08:00

(source)

Nam Kat refers to a waterfall in Oudomxai province, Lao. Again I managed to forget my camera when hiking here and was hoping that colleagues might fill the void ....

The start to the hike of the falls is roughly 20 km north of Oudomxai town where you take a right turn and continue over a dirt track until the first river crossing. Park here and then it's a one and a half hours walk up along the river into an increasingly narrow valley. In the beginning the track is well defined slowly the track decreases in width, though there route is pretty obvious.

The falls themselves are about 15m high into a large pool with quite a heavy flow of water. I believe I visited in December 2004 on a slightly cloudy day and the water was freezing, so no swim.

However Footprint Laos reports that visitors:

'... only saw a trickle of water from the falls'.

Never, ever comment on waterfalls in Southeast Asia pre-monsoon.

From the Oudomxai Provincial Tourism Department there is a good description of the waterfall:

'... if you are adventurous, take the time for a bath in the refreshing water of the Nam Kat'.

Can't see what the adventure of bathing in the water was, there were no crocs or anaconda's or things like that ...

Then there's the Lao National Tourism Administration :

'Why should I go to the Nam Kat Waterfall?
[Answer:] Discover the Heart of Northern Lao Why rush on, pass a wonderful day in the nature near Oudomxay'.

I know that in the past there was a threat of this area becoming 'developed' which would have included the likes of a resort possibly a casino, it's good to see it is still in it's natural state.

Elsewhere in the province there is the Lak Sip-et waterfall, or rephrased the 11km waterfall, which unsurprisingly is 11km up the road to Luang Prabang. Packed on holidays, these better accessible waterfalls are also less pristine and less impressive.

Best

2009-11-15T18:48:00.000-08:00

After posting nearly all my experiences with waterfalls in Southeast Asia, one would be inclined to ask what was the best?

Each has it's own peculiarities. By now the reader should have understood my penchant for seclusion and nature, though there's nothing better than enjoying a place with friends.

source

Ironically, I have never taken pictures of my best place and most frequented place. It's where I went for a refreshing dip was a swimming hole just south of the bridge of Hin Heup, Vientiane province Lao. See above picture taken from the bridge looking downstream. The swimming hole is all upstream of where the river disappears from sight.

Working late nearby I would quit after darkness had drawn, hop on the moto and drive up to the village and down to the pebbly bank. Off with the engine and let the sounds (or the lack of them) envelope me (and see if anyone is around). Then a quick strip and into the dark water. Just above a rapid in the Nam Lik a large lake exists, 8-9 months of the year at least.
Refreshing at most times of the year (even cold in December / January) I would swim across the river to a number of large rocks where you can sit on and gaze up at the moon and stars listening to the sounds around. Sometimes there would be skin divers with their lights and laughter. Always the silence would be broken by the occasional car or truck rumbling over the bridge to the north. The bridge existing of metal plates, it would make a hell of a noise, but only lasted a few seconds after which one can savour the quietness.

Hin Huep bridge (photo taken from upstream),
the site where a armistice was signed as well as the later stampede
in which many Hmong refugees fell off the bridge or were trampled (source).

Despite the skin divers, the swimming hole would be deserted, though come here during the process of sun down the whole village would here bathing and splashing about. Moto's and cars getting a wash. Come dark every one would head home.

A natural dip? In Lao? But surely that's not done. Actually it is. Development not yet national means that in-house running water is quite often non-existent, meaning everyone is bathing in the rivers or near water points. And not everybody seems to have been cautioned about the negatives of showing one's body ('R there any?). Even where I swam, occasionally locals would come out skinny dipping. I remember on one occasional a boy with his girlfriend, chiding her for revealing herself to me. Quite rightly she replied that the foreigner couldn't see a thing (right, no moon) and was used to it (right). But she didn't know I could understand what she said ....

So would I recommend the hordes to visit Hin Huep? It's a beautiful place despite the road running through. The swimming hole described above is probably now directly under the new bridge. And other than hanging around there's not much to do, though it would be a great place to set eco-adventures. Already the swimming hole is used as basis for rafting and kayaking downstream. One could also go upstream and drift back down. To the east and west are great hiking areas while to the south west and northwest are great places for mountain biking, not too strenuous but with beautiful scenery. Combined with the many quaint and traditional villages, it would make Vang Vieng look boring ...

Nibbles

2009-11-11T17:15:00.000-08:00

Erawan waterfall is rated as Thailand's most famous, most popular and less fortunately it's also the best visited (Elliott, S. & G. Cubitt - The National Parks and other wild places of Thailand. 2001).

The Erawan falls are the namesake of the surrounding national park (don't forget hefty entrance fee); Erawan itself named after Indra, an elephant with three heads which is believed to have transported Bhuddha from the state of enlightment back to the world of ordinary people (source) .
During the monsoon the top level of the 7 levels has three sepearte streams, hence the name, the waterfalls resembling the three trunks.

Each of the levels are only just a few meters in height, some with a plunge pool beneath.

Visited in August 2009 and on a weekday the park and falls were not too overrun. In each pool along the way several tourists were swimming, seemingly undisturbed by the frisky carp which tend to nibble at the swimmers.

A subdued son; no fun swimming with fish feeding on you. Bummer!

From Kanchanaburi take highway 3199 and keep following the signs. there is a monstrously big car park and even a real market a km away, so refreshemnts are always availble. There are a number of resorts nearby, but Erawan lies conveniently to most Kanchanaburi located staying options.

Waterfalls everywhere

2009-11-10T18:43:00.000-08:00

Kanchanaburi, Dai Chong Thong waterfall and Kroeng Krawia (Kreng Kra Wia or other variations) are two good accessible waterfalls in western Kanchanburi, Thailand. Both located in Khao Laem National Park, no entrance fee is required to visit these falls.

Kroeng Krawia lies directly along the road to Sangkhlaburi (on the border with Burma, home of Thailand's longest wooden bridge) which is roughly 30 km away. Good rest facilities exist at these falls, though lodging would be available in Sangkhlaburi or Thong Pha Phum, 35 km back the other way. From Kanchanaburi it is 190 km at least.

The Kroeng Krawia falls jump over low heights (1-2 m) as the stream finds it's way through the forest.

Dai Chong Thong waterfall is walkable from the parking area of Kroeng Krawia, take the side road up for 500 m, then take a left for another 500 m until you hit the stream, it should be more down stream. When we visited back in August 2009, it was during and just after heavy rainfall and the stream was flooding such that there were waterfalls everywhere.

High but not highest

2009-11-10T17:09:00.000-08:00

One of Lao’s area’s where a multitude of waterfalls are to be seen is the Bolaven plateau situated in the southern province of Champasak. Access to this volcanic area is from Paxé, south Lao’s major entreport. There are a few resorts on the Bolaven itself, a gradual climb from Paxé.

I’ve stayed in Tad Fane Resort (named after the adjoining waterfall) which sits on a ledge of the Bolaven with view of the 100m high waterfall opposite and below. Going down is not advised, it’s that steep. It is located 38 km due east from Paxé on the road to Paksong, Lao’s coffee capital.

Other falls on or from the Bolaven are Tat Lo, more to the north on the Bolaven and Tat Feak and Tat Se Noi (the former visited), both in Sekong province, further eastwards. While there is also Lao's highest the 120m high Tad Katamtok.

More unknown

2009-11-09T21:25:00.000-08:00

Located along the old road to Bentong (of the unremarkable hot springs fame) even the best website in Southeast Asia on waterfalls mentions this as 'unknown':

'This nice unnamed waterfall can be seen from the road. Will be powerful in the rainy season'.

SerenDIpiTy claims the same:

'We exited at Genting Sempah and use the Janda Baik road to link to Gombak-Bentong road. From here you will pass the unnamed waterfall'.

It's a good view from the road, but that's about it.

Beware

2009-11-09T18:04:00.000-08:00

Though it was much more a search for a nearby hot spring somehow we included this waterfall in the sights seen. Known as Sungai Sendat waterfall, it is 5 km out of Hulu Yam Baharu which itself is about half an hour out of Malaysia’s capital of Kuala Lumpur.

Though there is ample evidence that the place is overrun during certain times, when we visited in August 2008, not a soul was to be seen. Just their trash. The pool pictured above certainly looked appetizing but with the amounts of refuse nearby I was not enticed at all to dive in. Above this main fall are a series of smaller falls, the further away one gets from the main car park the more natural the surroundings become.

Probably on the odd days where there are hordes so there will also be lines of local caterers, but such was the case that day there was nada. It’s so close to KL that staying overnite is not really called for.

Waterfalls of Malaysia's entry on Sungai Sendat contains a stark report of a drowning here ...

Rapid

2009-11-09T17:01:00.000-08:00

Again not really a waterfall but rapids. O’Russey Kandal (or O'Russei Kandal) in Cambodia’s northernmost province of Stung Treng offers a nice place to get away from it all. Around the rapids an area of forest is being protected from land grab and / or speculation by a project intended to develop and popularize the rapids without effecting the environment. The village in cooperation with local national NGO Mlup Baitong has set aside some walking trails, rent outs bikes as well as arranges overnite stays. More info on the project's workings can be found in this article in the Cambodian Scene. Another initiative includes this site in the Mekong Discovery Trail.

O’Russey Kandal is 28 km south of the provincial capital just before you go over a bridge. Go to the east for 500m until you reach the car park.

The rapids are quite dependent on rainfall, below you can see that in April 2009 water levels were low, but still enough for a splash around. It being a weekday visitors were low.

After a long way in the car great for a cooling dip.

Making Beautiful

2009-11-08T17:35:00.000-08:00

The most heavily touristed waterfall on Bali and thus most probably the same applies for the whole of Southeast Asia are the Gitgit falls. They have much what makes waterfalls beautiful: nice pools, high falls, lush growth, etc. But that is often devalued by the masses of tourists who visit this 45-60 m high waterfall due to it’s ease of access next to the main cross island road. Though lacking in a huge car park, there is enough space unless it’s a festival day. Entrance fees are required after which a cement track takes you above and around the falls. There are quite a few warungs and some aggressive sellers. Though nowhere as bad as say on Kuta.

The Gitgit falls are just 11 km south of Singaraja the island state’s capital on the way to the central town of Bedugul. Accommodation is to be had or near the black sands of Lovina to the west of Singaraja.

A word of caution:

'The local legend is that if couples swim under the Git Git falls, they are bound to be separated so for those travelling with partners, beware!'

Uncertain

2009-11-08T17:33:00.000-08:00

To be honest, I don’t remember how we got here, I do know it is in Wang Chao National Park, Thailand. Direct access was poor, one needed to park on the main road and walk down hoping to find the falls. As you can see at the moment we visited (November 2008) there was not too much flow from the 5 m high fall. Beware though most of the flow comes from the opposite side Probably at the height of the rainy season it would be a good view. An au-naturel was called for.

Actually while looking for more pointers on the net I am now unsure whether it is the Wang Chao waterfall, certainly it is in the Wang Chao National Park. My reference adds it is 100 m high, ... not!

Wang Chao National Park is located to the northwest of Kamphaeng Phet town, though access may be just as good from Tak to the north. Don't get too confused the town of Wang Chao is in Tak province, the national park is in Kamphaeng Phet. Access roads are highways 1109 or 1116 from the main A2 highway north.

Staying is good in recommended Scenic Riverside Resort in Kamphaeng Phet.

Unknown

2009-11-07T15:31:00.000-08:00

A fall with no name. As happens this fall is probably totally untouristed and as such does not need a name. Far from the maddening crowds, this 3 m high fall is only reachable with two wheels or two feet. Actually the track fords the river over the rocks directly above the falls. The track connecting a number of village’s sees little traffic and the falls thus see even less visitors. One needs to scramble through the undergrowth below the falls. Though not necessarily a great pool, on a hot April 2009 afternoon this made for a great naturally enjoyed shower.

Getting to this remote fall requires some effort. For one it is in Ratanakiri province, one of the remoter parts of Cambodia. Best place to stay is one of Cambodia's few eco-lodges, Yaklom Hill Lodge. It is here where possibly more info will be provided as to where to get to this waterfall. (Phume Kres village?) All I can remember was that it was north and then a right turn roughly 10 km out of town and just keep on going.

Than Thip

2009-11-07T15:29:00.000-08:00

Thailand’s Isaan is not well known for it’s waterfalls, it’s a very flat and dry area. Nonetheless Nong Khai province south of the Lao border and thus the mighty Mekong, does contain a few waterfalls, predominantly to the east. Access is best from the road 211 to Loei, hugging the southern bank of the Mekong. At first this road is a wide thing connecting smaller towns with the provincial capital but slowly the road narrows and becomes windy.

The river village of Sangkhom is probably the closest area for accommodation and facilities if visiting Than Thip waterfall (faded pictured above). Having two (or three?) tiers with a big pool between the two this was my first introduction to the park like landscape gardening to which Thai seem accustomed when visiting a natural highlite. On our visit in late 2002 the place was virtually deserted but again the car park mite be wishing for more.

Nearby is Than Thong waterfall.

Bo Wi

2009-11-07T15:25:00.000-08:00

Bo Wi waterfalls is another Ratchaburi (Thailand) set of waterfalls only recently accessible to the general public. Located quite a bit away from local concentrations of people as well as an extra 30 km from Bangkok, it sees relatively little amounts of visitors. There is a car park though but with only limited space.

The falls themselves continue for 9 steps with varying heights and varying sizes of pools beneath. The half hour path up is well trodden.

Again not really a place for a swim, certainly not in April (2008) but good enough for a cooling down.

Lodging and food is not available nearby, stay near Suan Pheung.

Chaa .... Ong

2009-11-07T05:07:00.000-08:00

Cambodia’s Ratanakiri province has some problems naming waterfalls it seems; there’s quite some indecision concerning the correct spelling. Often the names used are derived from local tribe languages and translated to Cambodian sounds which are then translated into something recognizable for the foreign tourist. Along the way weird things happen spelling's wise.

Chah-ohng (or Chaa Ong) is a waterfall not far out of the main provincial capital, Banlung. Head due west for 2 km then go north for another 2 km, take the left fork and continue for another 3 km. You will arrive at a car park where a nominal sum is required for entry. The car park is just beyond the upper ledge of the fall.

The fall themselves are about 10 m high. Basically the water pours over a ledge and falls on the rocks below. Unique to these falls are the area behind the waterfall (and beneath the ledge) which are hollowed out. Probably this is why they are mentioned as impressive....

Our visit in April 2009 though coincided with little flow and as such the waterfall was not so very impressive.

Anyone for ice-cream?

2009-11-07T04:43:00.000-08:00

Khlong Nam Lai waterfall is located in the same national park as the aforementioned, Khlong Lan waterfall. Located about 20 km closer to provincial capital of Kamphaeng Phet it sees a lot less tourists. On a late November afternoon in 2008 the large car park was deserted save for an ice-cream seller. There is though a big car park evidence of megalomania or an indication of visitors during more days. Around the car park and the lower reaches of the falls is a huge park area.

The waterfall (which translates as waterfall with much water or very beautiful!) counts no less than 9 levels, each between 15 and 30 m. Somehow someone has decided that only the first three levels can be visited, the others are off limits due to safety reasons…. Between the three levels are large pools with very cold water (visit was in November 2008), good for a momentary freeze …. As with the Khlong Lan waterfall, more facilities are available in Kamphaeng Phet.

Sunny Blur does not recommend this place:

'Klong Nam Lai is nice, but not worth the trip'.

Getting here requires following the 1117 out of Kamphaeng Phet uptil the market village of Khlong Nam Lai where a right turn and another 8 km gets you to above mentioned car park.

Kao Chon with an o

2009-11-07T04:07:00.000-08:00

The area’s west and south of Suan Pheung, Ratchaburi province, Thailand are a relatively undiscovered area not even far from Bangkok. Due to the area being close to Burma much of the area was actually off-limits to outsiders. This has recently changed and since more and more tourists are arriving, mostly looking for ways to enjoy the natural surroundings. Especially the hot spring of Bo Klueng is becoming a must see place. Nearby are a number of smaller resorts such as the nice Scenery Resort and Nagaya, though more were being constructed when I visited there (April 2008).

Just a km upstream from aforementioned hot spring are the falls of Pha Daeng or alternatively named as Kao Chan / Kao Chon / Kao Krachon. They can be reached via the road and there is a big car park being testament to busier times. Otherwise one can take a half hour trail from the hot spring and get to the falls about 2 or 3 stages upwards of the car park.

From Wikitravel's Ratchaburi provincal guide::

'It is a medium-sized waterfall with a height of 7 layers. The water flows from the high cliff in the middle of the valley all year round. The quantity of water increases in the higher levels. Rocks in this area are granites. Previously, this waterfall was known only among Karens; later, foreign companies came and got concessions to operate the mine around 1941. After the concession contract was terminated, the district and local organizations were responsible for maintaining the area'.

It being the end of an exceedingly hot day and no one about, the pools were good enough for a great dip, but with the flow at it’s smallest much more than a dip is not possible.

From Ratchaburi city, take highway no. 3087, just north of Ratchaburi on motorway no. 4. The 3087 bypasses the town of Chombung and after a gradual climb you'll find yourself in the town of Suan Phueng.
Bo Klueng however is a well signposted left turn, 5 km further out of Suan Pheung still on the same highway, 3087. The hot springs are about 10 km from this intersection, on your left. The Pha Daeng / Kao Chan waterfalls are at the end of this road, 1 km beyond the hot springs.

Update: Revisited these falls in December 2009. Despite there being quite a few visitors, there are in all nine levels to enjoy. So if you escape the crowds you can well have a fall to yourself, the ninth level being nearly ninety minutes from level 1.

Having your own skinny dip spot at level nine Kao Chon.

Elsewhere the area upstream of Suan Phueng is rapidly becoming a tourist hot spot, many resorts and coffee shops. No foreign tourists as of yet. More on the local hot spring.

Prior Occupation

2009-11-05T23:35:00.001-08:00

Cambodia’s better known national park, Kirirom, contains a number of smaller falls situated around the mountain top. Getting here is quite straight forward. From Traeng Trayeung (75 km from Phnom Penh in Kampong Speu province) veer off to the west of the main national highway between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh. Keep going along this pot-holed tarmac road. After paying the entrance fee, the road will start it’s ascent to Kirirom proper, a high plateau (> 675m) with pine trees and a crisper air.

Visited in 2006 on a February week day, the area was eerily quiet. However there are a few no name waterfall sites on top which seem to cater to non-existent armies who are dedicated to leaving behind their tell-tale signs of prior occupation. Stalls are all over the place and must open up for bizniz in the weekend when I would say the place is to be avoided.

There is a resort located near the entrance of Kirirom National Park (Hillside resort) as well as the community based eco-tourism site of Chambok.

Good?

2009-11-05T22:11:00.000-08:00

Nam Dee (Nam Di) translates as good water. Not too far from Luang Namtha town it’s a great cycle ride there. The local village with the same name as the waterfall is inhabited by mostly Lanten with their distinctive dark blue / black clothing.

We visited here December 2007. Getting here is not too difficult, there is a road that circles the valley on the north, Ban Nam Dee is just off this tarmac road, on a 1 km long track, in total around 6 km from the provincial capital. Said otherwise head in the direction of Muang Sing and take at the first cross road the road to your right, cross the bridge and then the first track on your left. The not awe inspiring waterfall is another 1 km further.

Facilities are not to be had, however Luang Namtha itself has a variety of lodging facilities as well as caterers. Try the award winning Boat Landing, an outstanding community eco-resort south in the Namtha valley.

The area around Namtha is excellent for trekking, canoeing and biking, with much undisturbed forest as well as many different tribes. Green Discovery has one of the best set ups for anything in Southeast Asia, let alone in Lao.

Another good blog entry by Andy Brouwer who by chance lives just up the street from myself.

Atmospheric

2009-10-28T22:07:00.000-07:00

Khlong Lan, Kamphaeng Phet province, is another of Thailand’s drive in waterfalls. Visited in November 2008 the falls were huge (40 m across, 100m high) and freezing. Wind was wipping a mist which certainly added to the atmosphere but not to the desire to take to the waters. The falls are located smackbang next to the National Park headquarters, with a car park having ample space for even coaches. A few stalls nearby are selling and serving.

Kampheang Phet, the name of the provincial capital as well, is itself about 45 minutes drive away. Take the main highway south to km 346 and then follow road number 1117 for 40 km. From here an entrance road continues to the falls over a distance of 6 km.

The town has a wide variety of accommodation styles as well as sufficient restaurants. One of the best places I have stayed in Thailand is also to be found,the Scenic Riverside Resort. The town has some ruins quite near the center.

Tad Duen

2009-10-28T21:51:00.000-07:00

Though Sukhothai province, Thailand is well known for it’s ancient and historic ruins, it’s natural surroundings are also worth a visit. Sukhothai contains amongst others two beautiful national parks. They are not always as accessible but fun still the same.

About 35 km from the Sri Satchanalai ruins is the National Park with the same name. There is a double waterfall (Tad Dao) that can be visited though it’s a 2 hour walk from the park headquarters and visitors are not allowed to go there after a certain time in the afternoon so as to avoid tourists camping out there.

Close to the park headquaters though is a different waterfall by the name of Tad Duen (or Tad Duean, Doeun). Visited in November 2008 yet again the place was deserted. With a strong flow and a beautiful pool beneath the 10m high fall nothing could stop me from a skinny dip.

Sri Satchanalai has some lodging (as does the national park) and some nice places to eat, but otherwise head for Sukhothai itself even though it’s 1,5 hours drive away.

Where?

2009-10-27T20:40:00.000-07:00

And what would the name be of this waterfall? I don’t have much to go on. It’s in Loei province, Thailand and the photo taken was back in 2002.

A first?

2009-10-27T20:14:00.000-07:00

Access to Tadtong waterfalls near Luang Prabang, Lao is quite unique in Southeast Asia. Located behind a water bottling company, it has a huge car park next to a pond. There is also just the singular canteen. From here the canteen a concrete path actually goes into the hills upstream. Along the way are a number of smaller falls. On some stretches the concrete has given way (this December 2007) but still the whole path is estimated to be 3 km long, eventually returning to the bigger fall near the canteen. Besides the unappetizing pond there is not much opportunity for a swim. It’s more a splashing around kind of place, mostly visited by locals, it not being part of Luang Prabang’s tourist trail.

Getting here is not too difficult; the turnoff is directly south before the bottling plant itself, roughly 10 km in the direction of Vientiane. From the main road it is just 1 km at the most. Lodging is available in Luang Prabang, the canteen might not always be open.

A Bali high

2009-10-27T19:28:00.000-07:00

A very beautiful walk to a great waterfall is the walk on Bali, Indonesia to Blahmantung waterfall (or Blehmantung). On the cross island road from Antosari to Seririt roughly half way is the village of Pujungan. A side road in the village goes slightly uphill eastwards. In better times one can continue driving over the road, but there are very steep patches as well as muddy areas.

So when we visited in January 2009, we parked the car not far from the main road and continued on foot. From the crest one then descends back to the lowest place in the valley, the river. Shortly before the river there is an irrigation canal on your right, take this and follow until it’s inlet. From here one needs to continue on passing through a plantation and forest until it’s obvious where the 50m high waterfall is, some say Bali's highest.

There is a smallish pool, great to plunge in nudey style with the thundering fall behind you, especially after the hour long trek. And a full body search for leeches picked up on the way there …

Another good first hand description by Cornish Travellers.

It’s quite untouristed (still). The nearby town of Pupuan has some facilities. Back south, about 5 kms is the excellent Bukit Sanda’s Villa resort built on a coffee plantation. Though a bit stiffly priced it is certainly worth it. Fine lunches are also to be had. They also provide maps of the walk to visitors.

Additionally Bukit Sanda has an info sheet on how to get here:

'Are the falls named Blahmantung or Blehmantung? Who knows and the locals can’t make up their minds either, as a matter of fact, they call them Slingsing'.

Then follows a whole historic account of the erection of a number of signboards and some advice on shoes and transport. Finally the trek starts:

'You are ready to start your trek. The first couple of hundred metres or so take you out past dozens of barking and yapping dogs. Ignore them completely and they will lose interest in you. Out on the track you will pass large rice paddies on your left. You will also walk past a ‘mandi’ on the right of the road. You should ignore bathing beauties (of either sex) unless they call out a greeting to you'.

The info sheet then guides the visitor exactly to the falls. On the flipside it has a very accurate map.

Other visitors enjoying the same falls as nature decrees, by Balilogue

More from Ratanakiri

2009-10-27T18:10:00.001-07:00

Closeby to yesterdays posted waterfall of Ka Chanh is the Katieng (or Ka Tieng) waterfall in Ratanakiri province, Cambodia. So close that both can be visited within an hour of Ratanakiri’s provincial capital of Banlung. Again take the road out of town west for 2 km then roughly 3,5 km to the south just beyond a school is a dirt track veering off to your right. Keep following this track past cashew nut plantations (with the possibility of taking an elephant) until the road descends over a rutted track. In all from the turn it’s about 1,5 km.

From the food stalls it is pretty obvious that you have arrived though the road proper fords the stream and continues onwards. A small entrance fee is required. Above the 10 m high fall is a large park like area. Off to the left is a trail that leads to a staircase to the huge pool below well worth a great swim.

Again avoid weekends and you'll probably be alone. See above link for more info on Banlung

Back then

2009-10-27T00:26:00.000-07:00

A post entry without photo? Kinda lost the few photo's I had. In 1990 I spent a couple of days camping on the coast of Ko Tarutao, a then quite remote island of Satun province's coast.

Inland was what was then known as the non-name waterfall. It was an hour long scramble to get there a sort of a trail cris-crossing the stream. At the end was a 4 m waterfall, but no pool. However if I look at recent photo's on i-net they all claim that there's a pool. Funny back then we stripped and took a shower. Nowadays it doesn't seem to the custom, and though I acknowledge that it's not that remote anymore it still is way way away from what can be called civilization ...

Part of a National Marine Park, Ko Tarutao can be reached by boot from Pak Ba within 2 hours. On the island there is limited accommodation with some food and drinks available. The Lu Du fall is accessible from Ao San beach. Nearby is also Lo Po waterfall, which is even less visited ... Maybe we went there?

Nice

2009-10-26T19:10:00.000-07:00

One of the nicest waterfalls I've been to is Mae Sapok. Located in Chiang Mai province, Thailand, I'm unsure whether it's because it was really nice or was totally deserted or possibly both. It was a nice and sunny November day, back in 2006 which might have helped.

From Chiang Mai go south on the 108, then in Sampatong, turn right and continue up the 1013. Past the elephant camps and bamboo rafting sites. Roughly 40 km up the road there is a small road to the left which brings to a small restaurant from wher the main fall is about 10 minutes walk. The roughly 10m high Mae Sapok waterfalll is part of Ob Khan National Park.

Below the waterfall is not really a pool, but the stream continues down hill for another 200m where you will find a 200m long pool, great for a swim.

There is a cafe serving mostly drinks nearby in the village and not far away was a resort which did not seem to be very active. On the way there area number of elephant camps and rafting possibilties if the water is sufficient.

Ka Chanh

2009-10-26T17:54:00.000-07:00

Ratanakiri is a province in Cambodia's Northeast bordering both Lao and Vietnam. Long cut off from the rest of the country and a battleground during the Vietnam war, it is slowly becoming a destination of it's own despite foor transport facilities. Attractions are a mild climate, various tribes and some outstanding nature. However slowly this nature is disappearing as the primary forest is being replaced by extensive rubber plantations, changes which also result in the increased marginalisation of the original inhabitants.

The province contains many beautiful waterfalls, many still waiting to be discovered. Near Banlung (the provincial capital) local waterfalls are already well established on the tourist trail. We were there this April co-inciding with the nation's New Year celebrations. So the waterfalls around Banlung were well visited, avoiding the crowds by going early morning is just one solution.

One of the best accessible waterfalls is known by Kan Chang, Kinchaan, Kah Chahng Ka Chanh and / or Katchang. I've decided to proceed with Ka Chanh, which had the most hits with google as well as was used by Wikipedia. Lonely Planet though persists with Kinchaan which seems quite beside the pronunciation.

Ka Chanh is located just 6 km from the town center, two km back on the road to Stung Treng and then 4 km south. It is very clearly signposted and there is a big car park for which an entrance fee is required. The day we visited many kids were jumping around in the pool beneath the 7 m high falls which had been rejuvenated by recent rainfall.

Food and drinks are available locally. Banlung is the place to stay overnite. Try the Yaklom Hill Lodge, an ecolodge 2 kms out of town, for solitude and silence.

For another great experience
go for a skinny dip at the 700,000 year old Yeak Loam volcanic lake, at the end of the day.
Nice cool water.
Go any other time of the day it's packed beyond description.

More photo's of Ka Chanh falls on the seasoakingwaterfalls photo web site.

Provincial highs

2009-10-26T01:48:00.000-07:00

Another high fall, seventy meters is the estimate and Chiang Rai province's highest fall. Named Khun Kon (or Khun Gon or even Tat Mok(!)), it's not too far from the provincial capital. Located in a Lam Nam Kok National Park, Khun Kon can be reached by taking Highway No.1211 from Chiang Rai town. After traveling 18 kilometers turn right and proceed for another 12 kilometers. From the park entrance it's just 20 minute walk to the falls themselves. Again not necessarily a place to go for swimming.

Accommodation and food is best to be had in Chiang Rai itself.

Though deserted when we visited, apparently with New Year crowds are to be had. The pool beneath the fall is then more accessible than when we visited in November 2007.

Spinal injuries ...

2009-10-25T22:16:00.000-07:00

Mae Pan waterfall is a high waterfall on the east side of Doi Inthanon National Park, Chiang Mai province, Thailand. It is believed to be the province's tallest (100 m) and is essentially a thundering fall with little opportunity for a plunge.

If coming from Chiang Mai keep going on highway 1009, which becomes highway 1192, rather than entering the national park itself. It's about 10 km from the main entrance gate on the northern side. Once past this gate the road gets steep, very steep not so much fun for coming back. Apparently not to be used in the wet.

We visited it on a rainy day back in November '06. It's a nice walk. The nearby ranger station has not much to offer. Accommodation and food is possibly better in Mae Chaem or above near the national park entrance.

Scary is the picture below. why would anyone like to do this? The answer can possibly found here, though there's also the mention of a spinal injury ...

Butterflies

2009-10-22T18:13:00.000-07:00

The Pa La-U (or Pala-U) waterfalls lie due east of the Thai seaside resort town of Hua Hin, Prachuap Khiri Khan province. Part of Kaeng Krachan National Park (remember about the entrance fee), the falls count eleven to sixteen steps as the stream drops from the mountains straddling the Thai-Burmese border to the flat coastal plains. Still containing primary rainforest the area is famed for it's butterflies.

Visited in January 2008 these falls are increasingly a part of the tourist trail. A road goes directly west (3219) from Hua Hin towards the park entrance and parking area (approx. 60 km). From here one is almost at the first step. For more solitude and exercise going beyond this step is required. The above photo is from the third step, the photo below is from the fourth step.

There is a small canteen for snacks, no lodging facilities nearby. The lower fall pools contain fish for which fish food can be purchased. Monkeys also are parked at the car-park.

'Several of the girls in this group were not at all amused by the hundreds of carp that have grown familiar with the tourists who bring fish food with them to the falls. My fishing techniques were crude, but I got my hands around several of these fish. Happily for them, they are all still safely huddled in there schools awaiting the next group of tourists and their handouts'.

Tourist tales.

Another naming problem

2009-10-22T18:07:00.000-07:00

Known as Asia's answer to the Niagara, the Mekong falls straddling the Lao-Cambodian border are known by a variety of names. One problem in this name, is that the area over which the Mekong river drops is 14 km wide, partially on the border, partially inside Lao. The Mekong meanders here. There a number of different channels with their own distinctive falls during the drier months. However during the monsoon these separate falls combine to form one major fast flowing fall. Just look at the photo above, taken in April 2009: the barren rocks will be covered by water in latter months and the main channel sees water tumbling in from all sides.

In short it's difficult to assign a name to the fall above. The photo above however is the western most channel with everything below the fall and due west Cambodian, while all upstream area is Lao. Therefore it seems not unreasonable to use the Cambodian name. An old French map mentions this as "Chute de Salaphet" or Salaphet falls, though if you google this there seems to be some credibility lacking to this assertion.

This lack of credibility is partially explained by it's remoteness. On the west shore of the Mekong in Cambodia there are no roads, the roads north to Lao straddling the opposite shore. Lack of access means lack of tourists means lack of mentions on web sites. However on the Lao side, other channels are mentioned as the Mekong falls of Khon(e) and Papheng (falls here are 300m wide and fall 15 m). This is hardly surprising as this area of the Mekong has been a tourist destination otherwise known as 'Sipandone', the Four Thousand Islands. Additional attractions are besides a very relaxing atmosphere a former railway and dolphin watching. The Lao side contains a wide range of lodging and is often included on various tours.

Though I mentioned these falls as Asia's Niagara, the truth is Niagara is America's Mekong Falls:

'This monstrous segmented waterfall on the Mekong River near the Cambodian border in the extreme southern part of Laos is the widest in the world, stretching to as much as 14 kilometers wide during the monsoon season! ... The Khone has the greatest volume of the world’s waterfalls, its 2,500,000 gallons (9,500,000 litres) per second being nearly double that of Niagara Falls'.

Source

Visits to the above and below photographed channel are being organised by the Cambodian NGO Mlup Baitong which is assisting a local village (Preah Rumkel) in dealing with tourists, gaining revenue with the objective of protecting the forests around the falls. This is partially supported by the Mekong Discovery trail. The best way to visit is by arranging beforehand transport to Ou Svay and meeting up with a boat there. From Ou Svay it still is a 2 hour journey to Salaphet falls. Along the way there is a big chance of spotting dolphins.